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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:58 pm 
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They are different, yes?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 4:24 pm 
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Yeah they are...
I always thought there were only 2 offsets, but John Smidt at Mini King reckons it was more like 4... :shock:

In theory you should use Oz arms with an Oz rack and Mk2 onwards UK arms with UK replacement racks. But most people don't know, or bother.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:29 pm 
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I'm rebuilding late 80's 8.4's for my Moke. Should I just swap the arms over?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:02 pm 
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poeee wrote:
I'm rebuilding late 80's 8.4's for my Moke. Should I just swap the arms over?

If it's not a real late Moke I'd say yes, use the Oz arms.
Late Mokes which have UK arms on them don't have a lot of thread engagement into the tierod ends if using an Oz rack.
To fix this I rebuild some racks for John Smidt with Morris 1100 tierods on them, the extra 20mm? of thread comes in handy in this case.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:05 pm 
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Not real late. 78 drum brake. But the car was a bitsa, and the arms looked like any other arms i've seen on an aussie car.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 3:19 am 
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Most Ozzy arms were quite spindly when compared to the UK ones, but as the Doc and John have said, you need to be careful with the offsets, but there were only two. Some I've found with 'funny' offsets were in fact bent. The are some UK ones that I always fit to Mokes as these cop a real hiding with the bigger wheels.

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