HI all
I am after an explanation on how the drive shaft on for disk brake set attatches to the diff.

What I understand is that some cars have cv joints, some have other rubber thingies in the shape of a cross that is held in with U bolts, and it all depends on the gearbox???

I have scored a set of disks with drive shafts - they have the spline on the end. No engine yet. Was thinking about how these shafts will fit into a morris1100S box. Should I replace the box with a mini one?

Long winded I know - any help answering or even better photos of the joining device (between shaft & diff) would be appreciated.

Thanks

The metal cross type joint is called a Hardy Spicer. The other type is called a pot joint which is essentially a pot connected to the gearbox with ball bearings in it.

I'd say the pot joints are better (will probably get into trouble for saying that ) but I'd say get whatever it is that fits your current drive shafts. I am guessing if the brakes come off an original S (7.5 inch brakes) then it will be the Hardie Spicer type joint.

As for box (this is also a highly controversial topic) try to get your hands on a 4 Synchromesh remote change box to bolt to your 1100S block. This is exactly what I am doing, then you'll pretty much have a Cooper S Setup minus a few technical differences, but it will go just as good

I have all of the rest and I am searching far and wide for an affordable brake set

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

EDIT by 9YaTaH: Mini Mad...apologies...I cut and pasted your stuff and somehow went into Moderator mode...Man

wheres the Krytonite when you need it

Simply...as changed by 9YaTaH

All three types have CV's on the wheel end..

Gearbox end you have..

Hardy Spicer all steel Universal joints.....which are the cross and u bolts thing and were originally fitted to a lot of Coopers

and

Another type of cross type/U bolted joint that isn't as strong but more common....each end has a nylon thingamy which has a needle roller bearing inside and a groove on the outside to take the U Bolts

and

pot joints..which are another type of Constant Velocity joint involving ball bearings running in there own grooves...they look like a horizontal cylinder with an open end where the splined driveshaft slides in with a circlip to locate it on the gearbox output shafts

Hardy & spicer rob you of more horsepower, but are easier to work with......can't comment on that...the difference must be small....but Pot Joints are more direct drive....Pot joints transfer more power to the wheels...OK

but they are a pain in the ass to work with by yourself......Huh!! no harder than a lot of othyer things on a Mini.....just have to do your homework

If you use U Bolts, trial fit the U Bolt first, it may need slight re shaping by bringing the threaded end closer or further apart....use new nyloc nuts....

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

PS. You've got it the wrong way around, the CV joint is the bit connecting the driveshaft to the brake hubs (you already should have 2 nice CV joints on your brakes already).

TIP: If the rubber on the CV joints look old, tear them up and regrease the CV and put new rubbers on them now. Trust me it's SOOO much easier to do it while it's off the car

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

That's cause you don't have the right tools Josh!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

pfft! what tools haha...even the dr and I had trouble with the bastard of a things

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Short of changing a speedo cable at the back of the box, changing those Hardy Spicer jobs would have to be one of the worst jobs of all!! In my experience that is...

Yea the I know the CV's at the wheel end. Was told that some minis had a CV style join at the other end as well. Some great advice there all! would like to see how both work now. (Google for pics maybe).

Will be getting the CV's reconditioned by a local mob - about $80 each. Is this a good price? or should I hang out untill my next Sydney trip? Will also need to give these brakes a good clean and put some sort of kit through them. I think this is a kit for the calipers, I am yet to get more info about this.

Plus the obvious new pads and hoses.

I don't know about when replacing them, but when removing the motor and disconnecting them from the diff assembly, they're cetainly alot easier than those evil pot joints

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I see... will be fun to get mine off and on for the new engine then

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

You can bang the CVs off and use your old driveshafts. All shafts have the same spline at the outer (CV) end.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What do you think about paying $80 to get your CV's reconditioned? Could a novice aka noob do it in a garden shed/kitchen bench *insert pic of partner smashing my skull with a rolling pin*

Many `reconditioned' CVs are little more than a washout, new grease & boots, and new balls if needed. I think only 1 place in Sydney actually regrinds the ball tracks.
If they are clicking it just means the grease has dried out. Mine have now done about 160,000 miles, I `reconditioned' them 75,000 miles ago with boots & grease and they are still fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc...not that you need em...but I believe you can also fit bigger balls

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"Show me the Mini!"

Only if the tracks are ground out bigger, or are really shagged..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.