I'm not have the best of luck with these things at all.

im really over them, he did the mixture was running great for about 30mins but now the car keeps dropping to stal & is slightly missing. (balancing) ??

broke down again on the highway, then she started again got home..

but stressed the whole drive home, i'm not enjoying the car right now.

under load it's struggling & has no power.

I'm thinking, i have a rebuilt hiff44 & a mini spares manifold, is there a way i can work out what needle i need?

Do i need to go to a dyno? wich i don't mind, maybe the needles i have in my twin su's i can then work out what needle i need in the hiff44? i have a adapter to run a non swinging needle if need be.

then get it tuned? just dyno's are saying we need a full day? seems to long to me.

would have thought 1 hour or 2 to just do the carby would be enough? maybe i'm wrong.

I have the following spec & would like to run a single carb.

1293cc
Hiff44
25-65 cam same as Kent 266 cam??
Quaife diff
1.3 full roller Titan rockers
Med Supercharger light back plate uprated Pressure plate & flywheel balanced.
Gearbox has been cryo treated & some parts shot Peened (hel box)
Main flow stage 3 Extractors ceramic coated.


HEAD
8.6-1 comp fully Fast road light Race spec head

The inlets are enlarged to accept a 35.6mm valve, the guides bullet-nosed & the boss restriction is removed. The seats are 3-angle.
fully ported, features enlarged chambers to lower the compression, has 3 angle valve seats on the inlets, new silicone bronze guides {bullet nosed} are fitted, as are new valve stem oil seals, new 185lb double valve springs
Exhaust.
29.4mm nitrided 21NS stainless steel race valves.
Inlet.
35.6mm nitrided 21NS stainless steel race valves for improved flow.
Chambers.
*High swirl chamber design opened out to 26.5cc {or larger on request} to lower the compression & allow you to safely run more boost, valves fully deshrouded.


any idea's a Hs6 needle for that spec to start on?
thanks.

take it ready, he'll sort it out. dyno run 80 MPH around his backstreet circuit. just hold on tight.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Where Fiji?

I think he means Matt Read, TheMiniMan.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

oh yeh if the stupid car would even drive properly.

check timing?

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Token

HIF type carbs normally have a "bi-mtalic" strip Jet adjuster,,, quite often they work a little too good

many people have ripped them out & made a fixed/solid one

when the bi-metalic strip feels some heat, it leans-off the carb quite conciderably

just saying all this as it "'""""May""""" be your issue

but then again it """may""" not either

probably need the car for a few hours to sort it tho

it could be any number of things causing it other than the carb,,, the carb could be perfect & we may end up chasing a fuel delivery problem or a manifold leak or,,, or,,, & / or,,,--->

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

did that mechanic you took the car to the other day, fiddle with the dissy did he?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

He runs megajolt. The best way to distribute sparks.

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Simplify and add lightness

yeah thats wat i thought, but I seem to remember him taking that off and selling it now??

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

No I'm running twin su"s with a dizzy, will be still using mega jolt
Just buying a fancy harness for it.


Car is fine just running to rich, so I wanted to fix that so nothing should
Have been touched.

They are rebuilt and have been fine for 19,000km
Thy do seem to go out balance every while though.

He re tuned it and did mixtures that's fine but he did not balance it
Right.

I would prefer to run a single anyway

So my question is with My spec above.

all I ask if anyone had a needle reccomendatiom i could start with for a hs6 or hiff44.

That would be great

So does anyone actually have a recomendation?

BAM!!! Got your there Joe!! I knew it.. sorry but I had to prove yah on the bet, now to fb


only reason I asked that nick, was by saying "he tuned the car" I would have thought maybe he fiddled with the dissy and buggered your timing thinking he knew what he was doing , but not really,, hence maybe causing those bubbles and carry on's you describe it has under acceleration..... its just a thought..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Give Lindsay a call, he got me on the right track with a needle for my 1293, HIF44, mild cam, not too crazy compression. Made it run much better than what was in it previously!

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

lol no no, i have been running it for ages with no problems, its very good just needs be tuned,

i just have gone back to the dizzy as i was up grading to braided wire harness for a more period look & hide the high tech stuff.

then the blower go's on & a Dyno run.