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need someone to get my mini started - will pay - perth!
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Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  need someone to get my mini started - will pay - perth!

Hi, About a year ago i purchased a 78 clubby , basically a shell with a reconditioned engine. The engine hasnt been started for about 4 years.

However, i can not for the life of me get it started. I have spark. I have fuel. I have tried aerostart. I have tried to set the static timing, i may have it wrong but i have tried it several times, with the distributor in different ways, and all the car does is backfires.

It's cranking really hard with my 1800 amp jump starter pack.

I have no reason to doubt that the engine was reconditioned as i have pictures of the rebuild process and the person i brought if off used to come on these forums.

The only way i got it running was a pull start with a mate pulling me down the street. However as soon as i put the clutch in , it would stop.

Anyways this is a last resort , if someone can get this engine running, that would be great. Otherwise unfortunately i will have to give up and sell it to someone with more knowledge than me!

Ryan

Author:  awdmoke [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

If it started with a tow then I reckon it's just the timing is out.
How did you set static timing?
#1 spark plug lead on the dizzy should be roughly at 2 o`clock
Remember that the firing order is 1-3-4-2 ANTICLOCKWISE on the dizzy

It can be made to run if you mistakenly fit them clockwise, but it won't run well (my son & his mate managed to do this). Where abouts in Perth are you? I know a few in the Southern suburbs who might be able to help.

Author:  sgc [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: need someone to get my mini started - will pay - perth!

Ryan1980 wrote:
and all the car does is backfires.


Are you certain the spark plug leads are on in the correct order?

Occasionally you'll come across a car which has had the distributor drive installed 180º out, which means you need to change the plug leads around...

If yours is normal, #1 plug (closest to the radiator) should be at around 1 or 2 o'clock on the dizzy, #3 the next anticlockwise, then #4, then #2. If these are wrong, it'll backfire happily...

[edit] SNAP, awdmoke beat me to it :lol:

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

i know the firing order, i guess im not 100% sure the leads are in the right place as the cap isnt labelled.

Also im not sure it even did start when we towed it, it sounded like it was running but perhaps it was just the engine turning over because we were pulling it, i dont know?

The only thing im sure about right now is i have had enough of it! I either need to get it running so i can finish restoring it, or sell it

if you know of a mechanic who could help please let me know:)

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

by the way im in the northern suburbs

Author:  Morris 1100 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

When you say you have spark do you mean at the end of the spark plug or do you mean at the coil or distributor?

If you crank a motor over repeatedly without it starting it will wet the plugs and they will not spark.

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

i mean at the plugs

Author:  sgc [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

Ryan1980 wrote:
im not 100% sure the leads are in the right place as the cap isnt labelled.


sgc wrote:
If yours is normal, #1 plug (closest to the radiator) should be at around 1 or 2 o'clock on the dizzy, #3 the next anticlockwise, then #4, then #2. If these are wrong, it'll backfire happily...


;)

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

well simon they certainly appear right to me :)

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

one other thing i forgot to mention. I did a compression test . Cylinder 2 is down on compression, only giving a reading or 30-40 psi. I have been told that since this engine has been sitting for so long, perhaps the ring has seized up, and when i get it running it should free up. I tried pouring some oil and kero in the spark plug hole but no change.

Author:  awdmoke [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

Try Darren, Clae or Bren.
One of them should be able to help.

Image
Image

Cono at Minicraft is North of the river, but I don't know if he does call outs.

Good luck with it.

Mike

Author:  sgc [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:57 pm ]
Post subject: 

Ryan1980 wrote:
well simon they certainly appear right to me :)


Just for sh!ts and giggles, try plugging them in 180º out of sync and see what happens...

i.e. swap #1 and #4, swap #2 and #3..

Author:  woodwormm [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

i don't know if i've admitted this publicly before...

i once managed to squish a rotor button on 180 out of alignment.....

had me stumped for ages....

worth a check.... i know, i know, it's not possible to put a rotor button on wrong....

Author:  Ryan1980 [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

tried it simon
it kind of made a popping noise a couple of times from the exhaust manifold (no exhaust yet) before the starter motor stopped.

By the way this is all by spraying aerostart into it, i think the carby isnt set up right (or is rooted)

Author:  GT_Saffa [ Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

Photo's may help here.

One of the distributor with the cap on and the next with the cap off (but keep the rotor on).

After four years I would also suggest getting oil pressure registering before trying to run the engine. This may involve removing the pressure relief spring out and pumping oil into the hole whilst turning the engine over backwards to enable the pump to prime.

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