WONDERING IF YOU CAN USE WET SUB FRAMES AND BEST WAY OF ATTCKING THE TASK.

It is possible, yes, but not necessarily the best result.

The front frame will require some minor modification up in the tower to allow the donut to seat flat. The stock hyro arms will also make for a stiffer ride. Some like it, but for road use I don't. The car will tend to sit lower too as the towers are actually about 1/4" taller on the hydro frame, but hi-los will sort that.

A similar mod is needed on the rear frame for the donuts, but is easier to do (better access). You will also need to modify the rear trailing arms as they don't have a threaded stud for the shock mount, but best to swap them for dry ones as the wet ones will be very soft indeed.

IMO, get dry subframes, it would be easier and better.

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I did it by grinding slots into the rubber cones so they'd fit over the hydro bag locking tabs... didn't modify the subframes at all, but I did fit dry arms front and rear

but they won bathurst and monte carlo with hydro suspension - and a much nicer ride

Why are you YELLING !! or are you just really really Hypo

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Master of the Moggie Army & Founder of Awesomestock2010

I don't think the right question is being asked, it shouldn't be can it be done.

What should be asked is, why the hell would anyone want to do this

Steve

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1964 998cc Cooper
1971 Mini K x 2
1972 Clubman GT

Good question.
I find hydro bags outlast rubber cones as long as the car is in use.
And as Simon says, the ride is far better, for example I can sail across deserted `wombat crossings' at 60-70kmh... try this in yer dry Mini (which I have done once in Barney- eeeek... )

[edit] And on the NSW excuses for roads, hydro (with front shocks and comp rear bumpstops) handles better too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Have to agree...I have 1 of each..Stay with Hydro

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Welcome to the forum Chrisco, where an odd bunch but in time you'll fit in.

Can I just add to the hydro love-in?

I can't believe how good it is after driving a hyrdo based car regularly again in the last few months. Hate having to drive mcpherson strut cars after that...

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Who You calling Old...We just like a bit of comfort and stability

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

+1 here.

My car is riding a few mm higher at the moment with the HOT weather in Melbourne, the ride is if anything, even more comfy

Funny thing, I was talking on the phone earlier and idly sat on the front guard.. got a surprise just how pliable the front end is compared to rubber cones

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

A round-nose with hydrolastic & a remote 22G1128 gearbox,

The perfect trifecta

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Got one.. with lotsa power, in a sleeper body (matic).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

+1 here as well. I don't want my mini to ride worse than it currently does - where's the sense in that?

Simple answer is yes it can be done.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

My S was converted to rubber many years ago and I put it back to hydro last winter. The ride is 100% better and I have a hunch the hadling is better too, net to do some track time to prove that. It was a big job but I'm very happy with the result, just perfect.
Stick with Hydro I say.

Al