The exhaust fitted to my car is a Long centre branch type where the two pipes continue under the car, join to a y piece then its solid all the way to the front of the rear muffler (it's a twin box Maniflow)

I need to remove my exhaust sometime as the point where the pair of extractors and the y piece join has suffered enough bumps to start to separate the pipes and cause a leak. (pics below)

Two questions

a) Are there better clamps than the ones pictured, the one on the right can't really be rotated to a better position without fouling on the gear remote and is the reason the exhaust gets knocked back. It's the lowest point of the car.

b) While exhaust is off the car is it worth fitting a flexible joint beyond the y piece, I seem to recall it helps cut down some of the exhaust drone/noise in the cabin.

Thanks in advance

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

im interested to know more about fitting a Flexible Exhaust pipe and it's advantage if any with noise

Fitting a flex joint just behind the Y piece is a great Idea. You will be surprised how smoother it make the car inside. But make sure they use the double woven sort. The joint itself is about $35 depending on diameter of course but well worth the money.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I have the same exhaust on my Cooper S and I have placed the clamp so it is at the top.
It is a bit tricky to setup and tighten but with the use of an extension on a socket spanner it is OK and is up and away from being hit onto every speed bump.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I use these types of clamps:

http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBANKP ... &P=7761150

Then are much wider than those crappy OEM clamps, give a better seal and are very very strong (some rated for high pressure pipe work). Lastly they are thin so don't scrape the ground as much (believe me, every mm counts as that is probably the lowest point on your car).

No flexible exhaust not needed if you've got all the right points bolted securely: 2 clamps holding muffler to car, bolt from Y piece to gearbox casing (which you have), remote arm mounted to bracket on body, engine mounts good condition and some sort of engine steady bar (or two). If all these are there and in good nick you shouldn't have a problem.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I have a flexi joint on my exhaust, just prevents it from developing cracks etc, dunno if it does much to the noise? but must cut some vibration.

I'm also in aggreance with Lillee I have th same LCB and set up but with an old pipe going to the back. Considering how the back pipe started out the Tbar clamp pulled everything in

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

If a flexible joint is needed in your car then perhaps you need to look into more engine steady bar solutions to hold your engine down and stop if from using your exhaust as an engine steady.

This is esp the case if you have a rod change as it's not as stable as a remote. There are several solutions such as gearbox stead and putting an engine steady on each side of the engine.

Just a thought

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

didnt say it was needed, but its just another measure of insurance. I have a remote change and a top engine steady with the supercharger kit.

mini exhausts are notorious for cracking mounts and falling off so its just a good idea and doesnt cost much.

Flexi Joints are usually used for cutting down / dampening the vibration from the exhaust and engine; they don't change the sound that comes out the back!

In my Nb race car I run a slipper joint exhaust system for ease of removal and that still vibrates like the proverbial with 3 engine steadies on the motor, when I was running it all clamped up the 3 into 1 headers that I was running cracked down at the collector!

The picture below is a picture of headers and exhaust system I did for a clubman, that runs a slipper and spring style joints on the exhaust system with variable length primaries to tune to optimum power, The motor is solidly mounted in the chassis with front and rear plates, and with vibration from that it still has a habit of getting a leak if there is not enough silicon in the joint at the collectors!



This is the old system!


It went from 45.8kw at the wheels to 67kw at the wheels and we still have to play with the primary lengths! At is first meeting with the new pipe work the owner droped 2 seconds a lap with a cracked inlet manifold!

Just because you have an engine steady or two does not mean you are going to cut down vibration through the exhaust that can come from the motor as well at the resonation from the exhaust its self!

If you can afford to spend a little more I would get a flexi Joint fitted!

Hi wobbles. Is this a ''Shocka Pipes'' system?