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 Post subject: Crankshaft photo's
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:39 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
Posts: 692
Location: North Rocks
Here's some photo's of my crankshaft and bearings after 14 meetings. marginal signs of wear on the bearings. But the crank looks and feels and measures like it is brand new. Pity I couldn't say the same about the Camshaft.

Graham Russell

PS: Thanks to the the lemming up the road for the photo's on the interwebthingy.

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Image

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:41 pm 
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What would do you usually expect to change after 14 or so meetings?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:43 pm 
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1360cc
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Graham is this the crank you said you'd pop in my engine? :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Mmmm.. nice looking crank! 8)

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:19 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
Hi Poeee
The bearings are good enough to go back in, give it a hone new rings service the head and away you go.
Sorry willy that is the one out of your motor.
Graham :(

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:10 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Hello GR,

Interested to know if your selection of oil also determines the rate of wear on the bearings and crank.

Are you running KMX in this engine or something different?

(My GR engine AOK and running sweet on KMX now up to approx 2,000 miles since your rebuild).

Regards

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:15 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
Hi Dave
I'm now running the green oil, Brad Pen it has all the good stuff in it
Graham

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 Post subject: Great looking Crank.
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:57 am
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Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
GR, What oil clearence do you run on this Crank ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:42 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
Hi convertable mini
This motor was a bit tight i gave them a size to grind the crank to but when they nitrided it it grew a bit in size it had .001 tho on the mains and pins so i just gave it a good run in on the dyno.
Graham Russell

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:55 pm 
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998cc
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GR wrote:
Hi Dave
I'm now running the green oil, Brad Pen it has all the good stuff in it
Graham


Thanks Graham - google says this on the Brad Pen oil "Our BRAD PENN® refinery, the oldest continuously operating lube oil refinery in the United States, still refines 100% Pennsylvania grade crude oil. PA grade crude oil is a very thermally stable paraffinic crude oil which contains no asphaltic constituents. This makes it an ideal choice from which to refine premium quality base oils. Because we use only one crude stock, our refined products are of consistently high quality and performance."

What is 'paraffinic ' - am I right in thinking this is a mineral only based oil?
Is this available in Sydney? (I am guessing it is expensive)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 9:19 pm 
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Location: Baulkham Hills
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin

:?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:30 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
miniDave wrote:
GR wrote:
Hi Dave
I'm now running the green oil, Brad Pen it has all the good stuff in it
Graham


Thanks Graham - google says this on the Brad Pen oil "Our BRAD PENN® refinery, the oldest continuously operating lube oil refinery in the United States, still refines 100% Pennsylvania grade crude oil. PA grade crude oil is a very thermally stable paraffinic crude oil which contains no asphaltic constituents. This makes it an ideal choice from which to refine premium quality base oils. Because we use only one crude stock, our refined products are of consistently high quality and performance."

What is 'paraffinic ' - am I right in thinking this is a mineral only based oil?
Is this available in Sydney? (I am guessing it is expensive)


GR told me he can buy it, there is a distributor in Sydney - find it via the brad penn website


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:34 pm
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What, does a race engine only last 14 races and then time for a rebuild?

An engine rebuild is what $4000+, sounds like an aweful lot of money for a motor that that will run 14 races then a rebuild?

Am I missing something? Or is this the norm? :? :? :? :?

Brenton

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:58 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
What, does a race engine only last 14 races and then time for a rebuild?

An engine rebuild is what $4000+, sounds like an aweful lot of money for a motor that that will run 14 races then a rebuild?

Am I missing something? Or is this the norm? :? :? :? :?

Brenton



What you think an engine rebuild is and what GR is doing are 2 different things.

GR is stripping his motor, looking for things that need attention, rectifying and reassembling (or so is my assumption) He would not be reboring with new pistons, crank grind, full head reco blah blah $4k worth

Not to mention when your the man that does all the work it doesn't cost $4k for all that anyway.


And when your trying to win races you have to have a reliable engine that is 100%. Which means you need to check its still 100% after racing it. My boss would rebuild his race engines after every meeting, or so he tells me every time he points out how much time he spent working on his race cars when mine just sits there waiting for attention.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:05 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
Bubbacluby wrote:
What, does a race engine only last 14 races and then time for a rebuild?

An engine rebuild is what $4000+, sounds like an aweful lot of money for a motor that that will run 14 races then a rebuild?

Am I missing something? Or is this the norm? :? :? :? :?

Brenton


it's the norm - 14 races is a bloody good effort for a race motor. Some Top fuel dragsters rebuild their motors after each run down the dragstrip - that's basically a rebuild for no more than a maximum of about 20 seconds running time. F1, V8 supercars, NASCAR etc. have regulations forced on them about how often they're allowed to rebuild, otherwise they'd have a crate of fresh motors ready and swap them over each race

A race motor is built to make the most power possible, and is run at full noise all the time. The stresses on the components are far beyond what a normal road going motor sees, so yes, they wear out very quickly... and any wear might also be costing some power

Motor racing is expensive, if you want to be at the top, you've gotta have the money to back it up. The rebuilds might not be a full rebuild, it might just be a stripdown, check and replace the rings and bearings, but it might be more than that too

GR obviously gets expert labour for free cos he does it himself, but I think that crankshaft you're looking at is $4500 or thereabouts.


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