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 Post subject: Mini in a bucket
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 4:53 pm 
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848cc
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Location: ACT, Australia
Hey all,

Its a bucket full of all the fasteners (stainless) required for a mini.
Any one used one before?
Are they worth it?

Found one place that sells them from the UK for £120 + Shipping (Getting a cost for shipping soon)

Cheers,
AJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 5:48 pm 
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1360cc
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Check the grade of stainless they're made from: wouldn't want any cheap crap that isn't up to the job or binds and destroys itself.


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 Post subject: Re: Mini in a bucket
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 5:51 pm 
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1275cc
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TheBlackMini wrote:
Hey all,

Its a bucket full of all the fasteners (stainless) required for a mini.
Any one used one before?
Are they worth it?

Found one place that sells them from the UK for £120 + Shipping (Getting a cost for shipping soon)

Cheers,
AJ

I could be interested in this to... where is it? ie linky please! :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 12:40 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:47 pm
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Location: ACT, Australia
Good question! I'll find out.

There is no link, it was in mini magazine from an article and from there I searched high and low to get a link and found http://www.minimall.co.uk/ and called them and they don't sell it anymore because their supplier closed.

They gave me a number of a guy who I rang and i've been in contact with via email, so far he has been great with the details.

So to sum it up, i'll PM you the details. Or we can arrange to get a bulk of them to save on shipping.

They have asked 2 questions about the setup:
1. What thermostat setup are you using? 1 piece or 2 piece ( sandwich plate takeoff for heater etc) and are you using an "ultimate" steady bar (uses the thermostat mounting bolts)
2. Which clutch setup are you using? (verto or pre verto)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 2:02 pm 
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Stainless fasteners can be very good - in the right application. I would express caution before using stainless fasteners. They will cause the adjacent steel to rust and have next to no tensile strength. They will also gawl when using a stainless bolt with a stainless nut and tightened. When this happens, it is almost like they are welded and usually need cutting apart.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 4:56 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:47 pm
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Location: ACT, Australia
Hrm, alrighty then...

So what your saying is not to use stainless on important stuff?
eg; clutch, thermo, etc.

I'm not 100% sure what bolts/nuts/screws are supplied with this kit, i'm gonna find out!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:09 pm 
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TheBlackMini wrote:
Hrm, alrighty then...

So what your saying is not to use stainless on important stuff?
eg; clutch, thermo, etc.

I'm not 100% sure what bolts/nuts/screws are supplied with this kit, i'm gonna find out!


Well, I wouldn't recommend it. I guess that your reasoning is 'no rusty bolts' but it ain't that easy (is anything?).

I just use new (in most cases) ZP fasteners. Most on the car are grade 5 tensile and cheap as chips (in box quantities). If kept clean, they go for many many years without rust.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:56 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:47 pm
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Location: ACT, Australia
Got a reply regarding shipping and grade of bolts:

Shipping via air would come to £50 via air (5 days) or sea £38 (56 days)

All fixings are A2 (304) or A4 (316) most are Class 70 but some are class 80. If you are worried about the strength we have had no failures in over 12 years. We do not knowingly supply the following items to the general public.
Caliper or Drive flange bolts
Seat Belt Bolts
The originals of the above are made to a specific design with certain specified mechanical properties and should never be substituted for other than OEM

Could someone fill me in on the grading? They tell me they haven't had failure...I'd like to believe them but not everyone would report a failure and would these bolts/nuts/etc be OK?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:04 pm 
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1275cc
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Grade 304/316 will be fine for most applications, but is not equivalant to a high tensile steel, so you should not use it where a high tensile bolt is specified - ie, brake caliper, steering column pinch bolt etc. the tensile characteristics are quite different.

Some links I found useful when considering whether to use SS for my motorcycle caliper bolts:

http://www.rocksideltd.co.uk/PDFS/21-STAINLESS%20STEEL%20AISI%20304%28A2%29.pdf

http://www.rocksideltd.co.uk/PDFS/01-GRADE%208.8%20BOLT%20&%20NUT.pdf


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:28 pm 
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998cc
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GT mowog wrote:
Stainless fasteners can be very good - in the right application. I would express caution before using stainless fasteners. They will cause the adjacent steel to rust and have next to no tensile strength. They will also gawl when using a stainless bolt with a stainless nut and tightened. When this happens, it is almost like they are welded and usually need cutting apart.


This is exactly correct. Stainless in some applications is a gimmick and for car fasteners I would tend to think this is mostly the case.

GT Mowogs assertion regarding rust can be directly compared to having a sacrificial anode on a car or ship so that the anode rusts instead of the steel. In the case of a stainless fastener on an ordinary steel car, the car is the anode and you are effectively preventing the stainless from rusting by rusting the car. Not that the stainless would rust but the comparison is there.

In summary, stick with ordinary steel fasteners. They can be electroplated or painted etc but avoid stainless.

When we use dissimilar metals in big water mains etc there is usually an isolating component to the assembly. To prevent the corrosion in the car the isolation would be difficult, especially for self tappers etc..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:15 am 
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1275LS wrote:
regarding rust can be directly compared to having a sacrificial anode on a car or ship so that the anode rusts instead of the steel. In the case of a stainless fastener on an ordinary steel car, the car is the anode and you are effectively preventing the stainless from rusting by rusting the car.


If you are un-sure of 1275LS's advice, try it on some scrap sheet steel or go visit one of the smaller ship yards.

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