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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:59 pm 
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Ok, so another noob question, but I can't seem to find anything in my manuals I have here, but how do I adjust the clutch on a A+ style clutch slave cylinder setup?

I know how to do it on the A series slave set up, but as you are most likely aware the A+ does not have the same setup with the bolt to adjust in and out on the bell housing..

Surely there must be some way of doing it?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 1:45 am 
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no adjustment just bleed and go dude.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 4:43 am 
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Lockie91 wrote:
Ok, so another noob question, but I can't seem to find anything in my manuals I have here, but how do I adjust the clutch on a A+ style clutch slave cylinder setup?

I know how to do it on the A series slave set up, but as you are most likely aware the A+ does not have the same setup with the bolt to adjust in and out on the bell housing..

Surely there must be some way of doing it?


I suspect what your refering to here is commonly known as a Verto Set Up, as the earlier A+ had the same as the A Series set up. As NG says ^.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:45 am 
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GT mowog wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
Ok, so another noob question, but I can't seem to find anything in my manuals I have here, but how do I adjust the clutch on a A+ style clutch slave cylinder setup?

I know how to do it on the A series slave set up, but as you are most likely aware the A+ does not have the same setup with the bolt to adjust in and out on the bell housing..

Surely there must be some way of doing it?


I suspect what your refering to here is commonly known as a Verto Set Up, as the earlier A+ had the same as the A Series set up. As NG says ^.


yes sorry, its a verto set up...

So are you saying that you can't adjust the clutch? Thats crap if you ask me.. :shock: :shock:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:11 am 
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You don't NEED to :) Of course the big stop nut should have a bit of clearance when the pedal is fully depressed. But that's about it... Modern stuff... :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 2:40 pm 
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Yeap, as Asphalt has kinda aluded to, the adjustment is done for you, auto style :D

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 3:01 pm 
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You can make a standard Mini clutch `auto adjust' too.
Just leave the return spring off the clutch arm.. :lol:

Don't laugh, that's how the Verto clutch (and many modern cars) do it.
The little spring inside the slave cylinder keeps the release bearing in light contact with the clutch mechanism. As the clutch wears, everything miraculously moves to compensate. No adjustment needed.
In a non-Verto Mini you will find the pedal takeup point is higher, just like a Jap/Korean crap car. So I don't like it, but yes it does work.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 5:04 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
You can make a standard Mini clutch `auto adjust' too.
Just leave the return spring off the clutch arm.. :lol:

Don't laugh, that's how the Verto clutch (and many modern cars) do it.
The little spring inside the slave cylinder keeps the release bearing in light contact with the clutch mechanism. As the clutch wears, everything miraculously moves to compensate. No adjustment needed.
In a non-Verto Mini you will find the pedal takeup point is higher, just like a Jap/Korean crap car. So I don't like it, but yes it does work.


interesting to say the least.. :shock:

when you say "the pedal takeup point is higher," do you mean the clutch won't begin to engage until the last bit of pedal life up? If so my clutch on this car is exactly like this,, and its bloody annoying me,, the moment you put your foot on it, its disengaging it,, and then theres so much more travel yet to get to the floor that's not even doing anything.. (this is the reason why I wanted to adjust the clutch)

Does this seem right?

Oh and also to note, that it has a brand new clutch master on it, and clevis pins.. (even before this it was like this, but I just would prefer for the clutch to have more depress in it like my other mini....

Oh and while I'm on the subject of clutch,, why is this clutch in this mini wayyy softer to depress than all my other mini's? A baby could depress it, its that soft,, and yet theres no air in the system, is this a worn pressure plate or diagram or just the different types?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 5:17 pm 
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One of the 'features' of the Verto Clutch is a soft pedal. Don't sweat that, it's normal.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:05 pm 
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It's called modern :)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:46 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
One of the 'features' of the Verto Clutch is a soft pedal. Don't sweat that, it's normal.


YUCK!! :lol: :lol: GARHH, looks like im going to have to live with it :(.. im just used to driving with a slightly harder pedal, especally in my fathers trucks...

so it has nothing to do with an orange, or blue dot type clutch diagram things they spit out nowadays?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:01 pm 
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Lockie91 wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
One of the 'features' of the Verto Clutch is a soft pedal. Don't sweat that, it's normal.


YUCK!! :lol: :lol: GARHH, looks like im going to have to live with it :(.. im just used to driving with a slightly harder pedal, especally in my fathers trucks...

so it has nothing to do with an orange, or blue dot type clutch diagram things they spit out nowadays?

Well you could bin that POS Verto thingy and fit a real Mini clutch, you probably have a flywheel and all the parts needed already!
No need for orange dot diaphragm in a 998 though. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:51 pm 
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I think he has a 1380 a+ doc.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:04 pm 
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NG wrote:
I think he has a 1380 a+ doc.


yep sure do, but that has the a series clutch setup :P

I also have the 998 A+ in the other mini :wink:

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:34 pm 
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Lockie91 wrote:
NG wrote:
I think he has a 1380 a+ doc.


yep sure do, but that has the a series clutch setup :P

I also have the 998 A+ in the other mini :wink:

See Nick I knew what I was talking about, for once. :lol:
I've already fixed the top 1/2 of his 1380, bottom 1/2 still to come... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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