Ok simple question, are bump stops also known as 'upper suspension arm rebound rubber to the body' (pg 81 of Gregoorys mini 71-78 manual). If so how do you get these off, I cannot get my hand behind the two bolts that is holding these on from the wheel arch and cannot get to these from the engine bay either!.

I am on the last stage of removing the engine and so now have to disconnect the drive shaft assembly. In the manual it states -

(1) remove the scew securing the upper suspension arm rebound rubber to the body.
(2) using a suitable wood wedge that is the same thickness as the rebound rubber, insert the wedge in place of the rebound rubber

It's frustrating me as I doing it exactly by the book and this seems like a waste of time, or I am looking at the wrong rebound rubber.
Image link below.

Thanks in advance,

Dave.
http://gallery.me.com/davegreen1?view=detail#100007/Rebound%20rubber&bgcolor=black

I can see no reason why this rubber needs to come out. I never have had to remove these rubbers, they don't impede the engine out process at all.

The unis can be disconnected at the differential output shafts at the back of the gearbox, and will cause little trouble as you are removing the engine.
To give you room to remove the pot joints on a clubman, you can undo the top ball joint on each hub to swing the shafts out further.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Dave,
Not sure why you are doing that to remove the engine?
I suspect you are trying to disconnect the drive shafts?
Do you know if your car has pot joints or rubber donuts?
If you have Pot jpints you will probably need to loosen the top ball joints to give you the space to pul the pot joints of the diff shafts?

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

The rebound rubbers are the ones UNDER the top arms. Single Phillips screw, into the subby (not the body).
These come out easy, if still there...

It sounds like you were trying to get the BUMP stops (the big conical ones) off the subby.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the responses. My Mini's build is 10/78, so late model, so following the manual on removing the drive shaft exactly, as I have never taken my Mini apart before. My knowledge has always been basic servicing, so go easy on me. If someone knows of a how to thread on disconnecting this last part for a 78 clubman I would be stoked.

This is my first mid life crisis mini project and have my other daily drive clubby in case I bugga this one up!

From what the manual is telling me late models were fitted with the offset sphere type inboard joints and therefore the steps I need to take to remove the drive shaft. All double Dutch to me. I'm determined to see this project through to completely rebuilding so my knowledge and threads will hopefully become clearer.

Cheers,

Dave

No one is going to go tough on you Dave, its good you're having a good go at a big job.

To remove the drive shafts, you undo the top all joint nut and remove it. Once this top one is removed the hub will swing out somewhat.

This allows enough room for the offset sphere type inboard joints (usually called pot joints around here) to be removed from the gearbox.
They're held in only by a detent ring on the shafts, so they kind of click into place when you slide them on, and will similarly click off with some effort. To get them out, you can use a pair of large screwdrivers to lever behind the pot joint between the gearbox and the pot. If they prove to be difficult, you can tap them out from beneath the car using a copper drift and a hammer. They will release all at once and slip out far enough to allow them to simply fall out as you lift the engine up.

They will remain with the shafts. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots if they are in good condition, or you will need to replace them as well.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Mick,

Nah, just tough on myself. Thanks for your help though, hoping to get round to this job next weekend so I am going to make sure I read as much as I can before hand. Also found the following thread with pics which maybe of some use http://www.dazecoop.com/29-01-2007/removing-mini-wheel-hub-assembly-for-engine-change

Cheers,

Dave

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2 x 78 Clubman's
1 = Mid life crisis project
2 = Daily drive

Thats quite and informative site, and clearly explained in simple english, Thanx..

That's exactly what I need Davo, lots of pics and plain English!

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2 x 78 Clubman's
1 = Mid life crisis project
2 = Daily drive

Here's a "How To" that Doogie did a while ago with lots of pictures..

Easy engine removal

Although his Mini has Unijoints and not pot joints like yours and mine. I find you only have to undo and slip out the top ball joint on the driver's side of the car.

To disconnect the pot joints from the diff I use (and others will disagree with me because it's a bit heavy handed) a crow bar and a Gympie Hammer (sawn off sledge hammer). Works a treat.

Then you connect your engine crane and as you lift slide out the driver's side joint and then you can move the whole engine across to pull out the other one. Took me a while to find out about this method but it works for me.

Have you disconnected the gear change yet? You will need to punch out a pin from the selector, so if you haven't already go to Bunnings and buy some cheap Sontax punches..

Good luck!

Cool. Thanks for that.
Yep, have disconnected the selector rod and the steady bar.

I am working out my plan of attack for this next part and all the comments have been great, so fingers crossed.

cheers,

Dave

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2 x 78 Clubman's
1 = Mid life crisis project
2 = Daily drive

Dave, it`s pretty easy to simply remove the cable-ties from the rubber boots around the pot joints,,, then as you lift the engine you can swing the engine to one side & the joint will fall free from the pot (balls may fall out onto the ground)

then when one axle is free from the pot, simply swing the engine back to the other side & that joint will fall free from it`s pot

no need to take the pots out of the diff at all,,, no need to remover ball-joints from control arms either

with the engine lifted at a certain height,,, al this will happen easy,,, if the engine is still too low,,, or way too high,,, then it`s difficult to free the inner cv joints from their pots,,, but have a play with the hight of the engine & it will swing nicely to each side & the axles will fall free,,,one at a time

it`s actually way easier this way than other people have mentioned

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Awesome, that's brilliant Miniman. I am hiring a engine hoist this weekend and I convinced my old man to help me, so your suggestion sounds great.

Cheers,

Dave

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2 x 78 Clubman's
1 = Mid life crisis project
2 = Daily drive

Ok found a 500kg lifting hoist and chains to hire, just need to get myself 2 correct size lifting eyes and all should be sweet.

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2 x 78 Clubman's
1 = Mid life crisis project
2 = Daily drive

I made a lifting bracket from a bit of steel angle. It bolts onto the front head studs and a D shackle bolts onto the angle. No welding.