So i'm ready to chuck the brake lines in the Moke. It will be using a Rover brake master cylinder with built in booster.

So i've made up a diagram, copied from how my 1275 LS is set up.



The valve is the one that I pulled off my Moke originally. I wanna pull it apart and make sure it's fine.

I've taken the big nut off the end, and tried to unscrew the (plastic??) thing inside it, but it just seems to spin. I've got no idea how these things go together, as the manuals I have only have the rear subframe mounted ones.

Also another question with the Rover master cylinder. Is the layout the same as late Aussie twin master cylinder? IE the top one on the Aussie is the same as the top one on the Rover master?

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Hi poeee,

Look like the exact setup I put in my clubby (except mine isn't boosted).

The easiest way to dismantle the bias valve is to place it lengthwise in a vise, and squeeze it until the sheet metal cap (the one opposite the screw-on end) is pushed inwards just a little way. Using a screwdriver, you can then bend back the little metal tabs that hold it on. Then just loosen off the vise, and the sheet metal cap can come off.

It's a little funny, because one end is a screw on end, and the other not, but they both need to come off.

Once the metal end is off, you can take out the spring, and if you look down the hole, there is a nut holding the plunger in. The plunger is what you called the '(plastic??) thing inside it.' Use a socket to remove this, and then slide the plunger out the other end (the threaded end).

And that's it, as far as I know. There is a little spring-loaded square bar that goes into the end of the plunger (which you should have already seen if you unscrewed the end. You can take the little bar out with your fingers, but I couldn't see any way of dismatling the plunger any further.

I fitted some new o-rings, gave it a clean and reassembled. Works a treat.

Now, if you have the stepped bore MC (yellow tag, I'm not sure about the others) you will need to swap the lines out. The top outlet has a smaller bore, meaning higher pressure, so this will need to go to the front lines (i.e the lines will swap from what you have drawn in the diagram).

With the built in booster (green tag?) you will need to check if it has a stepped bore. If it does, you will need to swap the lines (because I don't think you can have the bigger bore at the top, can you?).

By green tag I presume you mean the thing that looks like the old council dog registration tags? Maybe I'll need to ask someone from pommy land.

Another question. Is it ok to block off one of the front line holes on it? I have some front lines from a rover that suit single outlet.

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My MC is a 'yellow tag,' which is un-boosted, and yeah, as the name suggests, it has a little yellow tag around it. I've never used the boosted type, but I'm pretty sure it's referred to as a 'green tag,' so I think it would have the same tag (except green, of course).

The rear lines go through the plunger setup to restrict the maximum pressure, but the front lines are not effected by the valve. The front line just splits into two lines, so blocking off one line so it can be split later down the track should be fine.