This is all "Presuming" that you have the correct float level to start right?
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| SU Needle Selection https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69228 |
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| Author: | 76van [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | SU Needle Selection |
have the 1 1/2 su off my 1275 now on the stock 1100 motor. just wondering what needle & spring i should be running now ? thanks in advance jayson |
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| Author: | gafmo [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:51 am ] |
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I'm using a #7 or a CP4...I think I'm useing a Red Spring |
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| Author: | 76van [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:36 am ] |
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thanks gafmo, mine currently has a #6 & a red spring.i`ll have to see what other needles i have. cheers jayson |
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| Author: | 76van [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:07 pm ] |
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any other suggestions ? what are you running ? |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:11 pm ] |
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The only factory listing I can find for an 1100 engine with a 12G202 head & HS4 Carb is an ABP needle and a Red Spring. Most other factory Listings are for autos wihich used the 12G295 head. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:47 pm ] |
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76van wrote: thanks gafmo, mine currently has a #6 & a red spring.i`ll have to see what other needles i have.
cheers jayson should be fine |
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| Author: | Willkog89 [ Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
Just throwing this post back. Any other suggestions? I've got ABP, ABJ and AAY. I'm looking for swinging needle suggestions. Any reason why my 1098cc with single 1.5 SU likes using a yellow spring..? It flutters too much and runs lean with out it (i.e with a red spring) and any of the following needles: ABP, ACB and ADF. I ordered a ABJ which runs richer, but with the red spring should hopefully go leaner, than on a yellow spring. But so far, the only success i've had for leaning out and sputtering is using a yellow spring, is this normal? Hope this makes sense. Thanks. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Sun Jan 08, 2017 9:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
Different springs shouldn't make it "flutter" - the spring controls how much air volume it takes to lift the dashpot piston to any point in it's travel. The oil in the piston and the brass collar on the rod controls how fast it's able to lift Have you tried different weight oil? Does your dashpot piston have the little stopper that's meant to hold it ~1mm up from the bridge? http://www.morrismini.com/SUNeedlesV2.a ... &size=.090 |
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| Author: | Willkog89 [ Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
i haven't tried different weight oil. i use SAE 30 mower oil and have found that to be the most consistant - both for accessibility and knowing it's just a single viscosity. I just found that if I use, for example the needle I have now, ADF - If i tune it to idle, around 11.5-10 flats down on the jet (which sounds about right), and drive it with a red spring, the plugs would be white. Replace the red spring with a yellow one, and voila! nice tan plugs, just a bit too rich at idle (hence why I'm searching for the right plug). But thats what I find so weird. If I use a red spring, any "normal" and ball park needle, will be insanely lean at around 12 flats, you'd be down at around 30flats just to get it to start and even then it would bog down if you apply throttle - with out load. Yellow, and then your up back at the 12 area, for leaner needles like acb/abp your at ~18 flats, adf, around 12-10 flats. Theres no information anywhere on minis requiring a yellow spring for whatever reason. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 09, 2017 1:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
These days with no lead in the fuel, you can't read them like the old days. Near-white plug electrodes are fine as long as not blistered. |
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| Author: | Willkog89 [ Tue Jan 10, 2017 6:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
So that from that, as long as I'm not getting fumbling/misfiring/hesitation from lean out, engine overheating and my plugs arn't physically becoming damaged (core, electrode blistering) cleaner, whiter plugs (as opposed to tan - the old goal posts) are the norm? Thanks again. |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
This is all "Presuming" that you have the correct float level to start right?
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| Author: | Willkog89 [ Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
i had the float set to 1/8", (3.1mm) but I found I had a bit of puddling on the bridge of my carburettor, so now I've set it to 3.6mm, and I might go a mm higher, as i'm still getting a little bit of fuel still on the bridge. As far as I understand, thtas within the acceptable range. |
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| Author: | Willkog89 [ Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
sorry, not "a mm" maybe a few tenths of a millimetre. |
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| Author: | winabbey [ Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: SU Needle Selection |
Willkog89 wrote: sorry, not "a mm" maybe a few tenths of a millimetre. It's worthwhile correcting the original post using the Edit button at bottom right, as well as (or instead of) adding a new post like you've done here. Instead of adding a new post some people just correct the original post and then add a line at the end saying something like "Edit - needle size corrected". 
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