I've started the metro 4 pot conversion this morning and already run into the first problem. When I bought the metro hubs, drive flange, discs callipers, etc they came all still bolted together ie they'd just unbolted the swivel joints.

I'm trying to remove the drive flange but can't get the hub nut undone because I can't get any leverage.

Any ideas?

I have a tool for holding hubs with 4" PCD studs, on or off the car. It's a piece of 3/8" steel plate 6" square, with a big hole in middle to clear a 34mm socket, 4 bolt holes drilled 11mm on a 4" PCD, and a piece of 3/4" bar 12" long welded on it radially.
I can put this `handle' in the vice if off the car, or rest it on a brick if on the car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

easiest thing to do is to take it down to the local garage and get them to rattle it off, they generally won't bother chraging you for it.

Cheers
Aaron

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Thread revival...!

I have a Cooper S brake assembly, last driven maybe sometime in the 80's and been off a car for several years, can't get enough force on the hub nut despite my best efforts and also the efforts and ingenuity of the one and only mattsmadmini

After the usual attempts with an extension bar and a heavy hammer, we tried with a small butane torch before more bashing but no luck, would putting a LOT of heat into it (oxy torch) make any difference?

I have the right size impact driver (1-5/16") but she just wouldn't budge cap'n, we dinna have any more power! Very frustrating!

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Get Mr Anglegrinder to split 1 corner off the nut, (almost) down to the thread.
Too easy to remove then.
I have to do this now and then to diff pinion nuts that gorillas have overtightened.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Use a good rattle gun.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

put it on a car, put nuts on the ball joints, put jack handle on breaker bar, undo nut

If the disc rotor is stuffed then lock it in a vice and use a rattle gun.
I've done it before by holding the drive shaft in a vice (it was studded anyway).

+1

I used a 3/8" drive Snap On rattle gun on the weekend and it felt twice as powerful as my comparatively cheaper 1/2" drive. There was also a 1/2" drive snap on rattle gun there that will apparently strip CV threads with ease

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

In that case I just need a car - mine's in Canberra Will get it sorted somehow

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TAFE teacher to the rescue!

Took it along to panelbeating class, as they have vices and I don't (all virtue, yours truly ). No luck - it kept slipping in the vice.

Enter old school panelbeating teacher + BFH + cold chisel. Put it back in the vice, three blows of the cold chisel on one of the corners / "crowns" of the nut - in the direction of loosening - and it started unwinding smoothly. That corner is a bit trashed (you could smooth it off with a grinder), but it is reusable and the thread is undamaged, although I'll still replace it with a newie as I'm doing a bare metal resto.

Happy days! Thanks everyone for your suggestions, physical labour and offers of help. If you're reading this sometime down the track, this should give you plenty of options for that dastardly hub (castellated) nut. I dug it up out of the ausmini archives because I don't believe in reinventing the wheel...or nut

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I'd not use the nut again. Keep it for a spare maybe as aftermarket ones are crap, but now that its damaged it's more likely to strip when torquing up, getting off, or in a worst case scenario crack or come off.

Yes, good call on the safety.

Are the new ones really that bad? (assuming they don't sell you the "close enough" metric ones that is)

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I've not come across 'aftermarket' ones, but the genuine ones are still OK.

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I've seen some aftermarket ones where the nuts are too thick to let the split pin go in.
And on others the fit of the threads was so loose I reckon they had only 50% engagement.
Clearly, some overseas manufacturers have no idea of thread limits and fits.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.