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Why go bare metal for repray?
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Author:  dansedgli [ Sun May 08, 2005 2:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Why go bare metal for repray?
G'day guys,
I have just bought a new daily driver that doesnt need anymore mods so I can now give the mini some attention. Once I get motivated that is. Any tips for that? :?

I was going to do a budget turbo install but have realised that without spending more than I want to the falcon will always be faster. It has 260rwkw on low boost :twisted:

Now the plan is to fix the body work and give it a nice respray then think about the engine afterwards.

What are the benefits of going back to a bare shell before spraying? What is the best method of taking the current paint off if I go that way? I have never sprayed a car on my own before so this will be a big learning thing.

There are a few dints in the roof and front quarter panels and The main rust spots are in the doors which Im thinking would be easier to replace than repair but there is also rust on one side behind the door hinges. How should I fix this?

Thanks guys
Dan
Author:  Besser [ Sun May 08, 2005 2:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Sounds like your in for fun
Why go bare metal? well think of all the rust you can't yet see! also it's easyer to straighted panels with a dolly and hammer and maybe some spot heat then bog, file and sander, it also lasts longer.

Dont be shy about re4moving rust. Last think you want is magic bubbles coming up under the paint close to a repair.

You could reskin the doors (I do) then you can also get into the seams and clean them up and gal spray them.

Try stripper and a 40 grit sanding pad. First rough it up with the pad then let the stripper do it's work. Also scrape the underbody cold then on the hard to remove bits do it hot. also a rag soaked in kero or the like laid on the underbody then covered in plastic overnight will have you wiping it off in the morning.

You could also go the beadblasting though I would make sure that you are ready for it once it's done. Dont have the blaster undercoat it as it allows them to leave parts unblasted and the paint straight over it. you also get clean metal to have a go fixing. you will need to house it in a garage with a constant temp and low moisture (cover the floor with sawdust when not working on it, I have done this with success.)

remove the outer seam covers they hide rust under them, I also remove the outer sill panel and replace with another one I get folded, there is always rust uner there. you can fill it with spray gal and seal it up for another 40 years. PS you need to hammer bend the folded replacement sill as the sill is slightly curved front to back
Author:  9YaTaH [ Sun May 08, 2005 9:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sounds like your in for fun
Besser wrote:
Why go bare metal? well think of all the rust you can't yet see! also it's easyer to straighted panels with a dolly and hammer and maybe some spot heat then bog, file and sander, it also lasts longer.

Dont be shy about re4moving rust. Last think you want is magic bubbles coming up under the paint close to a repair.

You could reskin the doors (I do) then you can also get into the seams and clean them up and gal spray them.

Try stripper and a 40 grit sanding pad. First rough it up with the pad then let the stripper do it's work. Also scrape the underbody cold then on the hard to remove bits do it hot. also a rag soaked in kero or the like laid on the underbody then covered in plastic overnight will have you wiping it off in the morning.

You could also go the beadblasting though I would make sure that you are ready for it once it's done. Dont have the blaster undercoat it as it allows them to leave parts unblasted and the paint straight over it. you also get clean metal to have a go fixing. you will need to house it in a garage with a constant temp and low moisture (cover the floor with sawdust when not working on it, I have done this with success.)

remove the outer seam covers they hide rust under them, I also remove the outer sill panel and replace with another one I get folded, there is always rust uner there. you can fill it with spray gal and seal it up for another 40 years. PS you need to hammer bend the folded replacement sill as the sill is slightly curved front to back


Inter-muh-resting Mr Bricks,

I will try the kero soaked rag under plastic trick :!:

BTW "remove the outer seam covers they hide rust under them" is this an absolute given :?: I have an 850 shell that has come from Grenfell NSW...its very dry out there....as a for instance...when I removed the windscreens there was absolutely not a skerick of rust underneath the the original rubbers.....the seams are covered with multiple layers of paint...I was just going to cut the paint back and if there is no evidence of rust, then I was thinking of not disturbing the seams. Wot you think :?:

as for the outer sill panel, man looks OK.....that woulsd be a lot of work for me when I ain't sure it is really worth it...I know...tin worm is no ones friend :!: :roll:
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun May 08, 2005 10:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mick, I'd take those covers off, you will be surprised what's lurking under there.
The little clips that lock them on dig thru the paint and can cause rusting.
And they are usually brazed at the ends as well.
I don't use the clips or braze them now, I Sikaflex them on. It's a 1 part polyurethane sealer. Keeps water etc out for good. :wink:
Author:  dansedgli [ Mon May 09, 2005 8:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sounds like your in for fun
Besser wrote:
remove the outer seam covers they hide rust under them, I also remove the outer sill panel and replace with another one I get folded, there is always rust uner there. you can fill it with spray gal and seal it up for another 40 years. PS you need to hammer bend the folded replacement sill as the sill is slightly curved front to back


Thanks for the advice. I have a dumb question though... What do you mean by the outer seams and sills? Is this the front side section on the outside of the engine bay?

I will do a bare metal job I think. Im not in a hurry to do it so I may as well do it properly.

Ill start tonight by taking out the interior. On the weekend Ill get my hands on an engine crane and take out the engine and box so I can do the engine bay as well.

Thanks guys, keep the advice coming! 8)
Author:  9YaTaH [ Mon May 09, 2005 12:22 pm ]
Post subject:  I hear ya Doc
drmini in aust wrote:
Mick, I'd take those covers off, you will be surprised what's lurking under there.
The little clips that lock them on dig thru the paint and can cause rusting.
And they are usually brazed at the ends as well.
I don't use the clips or braze them now, I Sikaflex them on. It's a 1 part polyurethane sealer. Keeps water etc out for good. :wink:


Yeah...I hear ya Doc...just stalling the inevitable...I don't remember seeing the blob of weld/braze on either end of my seam covers...I will look again tonite :D...simple job to grind them through....
Author:  Besser [ Mon May 09, 2005 11:54 pm ]
Post subject:  ya ya
Hey if you dont want to pull any seams off, DONT! Then you can do it the second time and really admire how hard it is to match paint and finish again.

The lower sills are a hard job and if you give it a really serious go you'll get through it. I am amazed from the ones I've done, how much rust hides away till the last moment
Author:  madarsemini [ Tue May 10, 2005 6:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Why go bare metal?
- You can see what the old owner/s have tried to patch up with bog.
- The primers will stick better as sometimes when people don't rub right back to bare metal the old paint may have a reaction with the primer causing it not to stick.
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue May 10, 2005 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
^^^ what he said!

If you can go back to bare metal, then do it. You have MUCH less risk of contaminated paint then, if you are spraying onto clean metal.

My clubby still had the original Am Eye Blue enamel on it......and after 27 odd years it was pretty thin...so rubbing it back to bare metal by hand was quite easy. Put a good quality etch primer over your metal and you have the foundation for a great paint job!! :wink:
Author:  dansedgli [ Tue May 10, 2005 8:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the advice guys, Im dreading getting started taking paint off just in case something goes wrong. :(

Its currently white with a pink pearl through it but there is a few dents in it and some rust that needs to be cut out. It would be a hard colour to match apparantly.

Ill start taking it apart on the weekend. Ill take progress pics and post them up to keep me motivated.

Ive now got it in my head that an extended flip front and 4efte or VTEC would be nice depending on which the engineer prefers.
Author:  aaron [ Tue May 10, 2005 8:45 am ]
Post subject: 
I have just scraped every ounce of paint of my engine bay and now am about to etch prime it, probably this evening... or next week at this rate. I have been able to see what is wrong with the firewall etc etc. Anyway only thing i am tossing up as to what to do it weather or not i will put the sound deadener back on.

Cheers

Aaron
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue May 10, 2005 8:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Aaron...after my experience, I say NO!
Author:  rampage101 [ Tue May 10, 2005 10:43 am ]
Post subject: 
J_A_M wrote:
Aaron...after my experience, I say NO!


Care to elaborate? Why no to sound deadner?
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue May 10, 2005 11:06 am ]
Post subject: 
Nothing against sound deadner at all.....personally I think it's great.

I used Motorspray Stone Guard, made by Hi Chem.....it's crap and the guys who make it are tossers!

It fcuked up my paint in a few places.....their sales manager rang me and promised the earth, and delivered nothing. I told them it was in their interests to resolve the issue, or I would 'talk' about their product and company....so this is just the beginning..... :evil:
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