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| Remote to rod? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69866 |
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| Author: | jordy.... [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Remote to rod? |
ok heres the situation! that last few weeks ive put in the motor and plumbed her all up with no worrys. so today i went to put in the rod change selector and now ive come to the problem that the shell orgionaly had a remote change box and selector! anyway to get around this? just make up brackets ect? any help or pics are greatly appreciated!! cheers |
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| Author: | garrathj [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:53 pm ] |
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I'm interested in this as well, doing the same thing I don't have the original bracket for the rod change so a pic would be helpful. Thanks |
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| Author: | VulcanBB18 [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It has been some time since I looked at this, but I've seen two approaches. One is to cut the whole rod hole & surrounding metal from a donor car and weld it into the project or "Manipulate" the existing floorpan to accept the rod-mounts and thus the rod-change. The latter is usually more ugly, but much cheaper and quicker. cheers, Jacob |
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| Author: | jordy.... [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i was thinking of just making up some new brackets off the selector to the shell but getting it right is the hard part! |
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| Author: | Harley [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:21 pm ] |
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I don't have a photo at hand of my finished remote to rod conversion, just this early layout but the finished one wasnt much different: My setup uses three rubber cotton reels (normally there's only two). Two of them are mounted to the existing tunnel holes (blue arrows), and only one hole was added for the third stabiliser. No other modifications were made to the transmission tunnel. The finished result is very strong and stable, compact and easy to fit. 
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| Author: | Lillee [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
After having to repair my boot floor from a previous owner butcher job of converting to rod change, the only advice I have for you is to plan carefully and execute sparingly. Don't cut a whopping great hole in the bottom of your car like mine was... Took me 5 years to finally sort it out back to nearly stock... |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
VulcanBB18 wrote: The latter is usually more ugly, but much cheaper and quicker. cheers, Jacob Nothing a bit of carpet won't fix. I think harley has it licked. Remove the shifter lever and then fit it up to the gearbox by the steady bolt. Then you can lift it to the floor to mark out the mounting holes. |
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| Author: | IndigoBlueCooperS [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:01 pm ] |
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I have done two of these. One each way as per Jacobs post. The most satisfying result was to change over a section of the floor pan. This enabled all the original rod change bits be used and retained the original geometry and ground clearance at the gear change housing. You will find the rod change style floor pan has a larger tunnel around the gear change to enable the ground clearance be retained. The other one involved modifying the rod change mounting bracket and floor with a big hammer to enable the gear change housing be lifted up to keep the ground clearance. Not as neat as changing a section of the floor pan, but less work. The photo from Harley looks like he may have lost some ground clearance. Hard to tell, and may not be an issue. |
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| Author: | Harley [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Still 100mm from the ground, and not the lowest part under my car, it's virtually level with the exhaust system. No offroad action for me though. 
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| Author: | MrFail [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did this on my old clubby, and if i remember correctly it was pretty easy. The only thing i do remember is that it sat a little low, I only used the two standard rubber mounting things, i don't know if that affected things. so if you have your car lowered you might need a bit of ajusting to get it sitting good. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:51 pm ] |
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The basic `Oz hydro channel' floorpan was unchanged from 1967 to 1978, except there were 2 patches bumped upwards in a die, where the cottonreel mounts are. I'd be lighting the oxy up and using a VBFH from underneath to duplicate said bumps. 
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| Author: | Lockie91 [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ive done exactly wat harley has done.. and bluey had no worries.. i had other parts lower than the stick anyway.. if u want it perfect, then replace the floor part.. it'll take x19 times longer tho.. |
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| Author: | Harley [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: The basic `Oz hydro channel' floorpan was unchanged from 1967 to 1978, except there were 2 patches bumped upwards in a die, where the cottonreel mounts are.
I'd be lighting the oxy up and using a VBFH from underneath to duplicate said bumps. But then you'd want to weld in the higher transmission tunnel, wouldn't stretch that.
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:24 pm ] |
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Harley wrote: drmini in aust wrote: The basic `Oz hydro channel' floorpan was unchanged from 1967 to 1978, except there were 2 patches bumped upwards in a die, where the cottonreel mounts are. I'd be lighting the oxy up and using a VBFH from underneath to duplicate said bumps. But then you'd want to weld in the higher transmission tunnel, wouldn't stretch that. Are you SURE it's higher, it looks the same to me. UK cars got a taller, squarer tunnel, but Oz never did. Hint: the crossmember is the same on all ours, so how can the tunnel be higher..?? |
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| Author: | Timbo [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:29 pm ] |
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Lillee wrote: After having to repair my boot floor from a previous owner butcher job of converting to rod change, the only advice I have for you is to plan carefully and execute sparingly. Don't cut a whopping great hole in the bottom of your car like mine was...
Took me 5 years to finally sort it out back to nearly stock... Jeez it must have been a big hole if it damaged the boot floor! Tim |
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