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what distributor should i buy https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69989 |
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Author: | josh_atkins91 [ Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:42 pm ] |
Post subject: | what distributor should i buy |
hey guys, i have a 62 850 with an 1100 motor out of a later car and i was trying to set up my timing today and realised thst my distributor is pretty much stuffed. what i would like to know is what distributor will bolt straight in? preferably one with electronic ignition. i have a bosch sc12 coil if that changes anything. http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1593.htm will this be suitable? thanks in advance |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
It'll work OK, but whether the advance curve is perfect for your motor is doubtful. If motor is stock it's probably near enough. |
Author: | Convertible Mini [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:13 am ] |
Post subject: | Electronic Distributor |
I sell these 25D distributors and I can supply it with either a straight Cap or side entry. I also have the 45D with both type of caps too. The side entry for the 43/45D is a NEW special Item too. Ideal for Round nose Minis and Mokes to keep the leads away from the Grille. |
Author: | Mike Montgomery [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:10 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I got one of those Pulsar conversions of ebay for $180, been great so far |
Author: | miniman_998 [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:35 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Ive got a Pulsar dizzy in my 72' clubman 1100. Big cam and all the gear. Had it regraphed to suit and has been trouble free so far! And cheap as chips! |
Author: | Mike_Byron [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:20 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I am old school. I prefer the original dizzy (but one that is is good shape and the right graph plate for the engine. My reasoning is that if the electronic blow - and it does happen - then you are a tow job home. With the points, you can easily and cheaply replace them and you on your way again. The difference in performance between the two types is not that great. Mike |
Author: | josh_atkins91 [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
what is the best cost way to do this? i need a new dissy what will bolt straight in and get me going again. i don't want to have to modify parts |
Author: | Fiji [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Pls elaborate on the performance difference |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Fiji wrote: Pls elaborate on the performance difference
Yes it is true that the HP gain is not that great, but IMO you achieve the following benefits: 1. Less wet weather problems- I can hose my Pulsar dizzy with the Bosch leads and no rubber dizzy cover, and it doesn't miss a beat. 2. More accurate timing (less timing scatter) on each cylinder, as wear in the dizzy bearings has hardly any timing effect on the electronic module- unlike the case when using points. 3. No points to burn out, or adjust. 4. Timing stays correct for long periods, unlike what happens when points wear. 5. Better spark at high rpm, due to no points bounce. 6. No poor quality condenser or points needed. Quality of these components has gone downhill lately, even with `name brands'. As for reliability- yes, I have succeeded in burning out a Britparts module (I left the ign on too long with motor stopped whilst troubleshooting). However, I have converted probably 10 or 12 Pulsar dizzys, all are still going fine. They seem to be bulletproof, I gave up carrying a Lucas dizzy `just in case' years ago. Pulsar dizzys were made by Hitachi, not some `fly by night' cheapo chinese aftermarket electronics outfit. American `Pertronix II' electronic modules and dizzys are burnoutproof too, if you happen to leave ignition on when stopped.. |
Author: | simon k [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
josh_atkins91 wrote: what is the best cost way to do this?
i need a new dissy what will bolt straight in and get me going again. i don't want to have to modify parts What you should do is go to Link and buy one of their reconditioned standard distributors |
Author: | slide [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Performance Ignitions Scorcher is a good choice, though more costly. Uses all easily and cheaply available Bosch Holden/Ford parts and comes with a custom advance curve. Ultra reliable IME. |
Author: | minimanic [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I'm a firm believer in making sure the graph in a distributor suits the engine. Whatever option you go for, a properly set up unit can make a significant improvement to how the motor runs. My own dissy is nothing like standard, I run a custom Bosch HEI ignition system. |
Author: | raisto2 [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:51 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
simon k wrote: josh_atkins91 wrote: what is the best cost way to do this? i need a new dissy what will bolt straight in and get me going again. i don't want to have to modify parts What you should do is go to Link and buy one of their reconditioned standard distributors Is your CapsLock key stuck again? ![]() |
Author: | GT mowog [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 8:19 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
raisto2 wrote: simon k wrote: josh_atkins91 wrote: what is the best cost way to do this? i need a new dissy what will bolt straight in and get me going again. i don't want to have to modify parts What you should do is go to Link and buy one of their reconditioned standard distributors Is your CapsLock key stuck again? ![]() I'm actually glad he did that, I'm hard of hearing. |
Author: | raisto2 [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 8:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
GT mowog wrote: raisto2 wrote: simon k wrote: josh_atkins91 wrote: what is the best cost way to do this? i need a new dissy what will bolt straight in and get me going again. i don't want to have to modify parts What you should do is go to Link and buy one of their reconditioned standard distributors Is your CapsLock key stuck again? ![]() I'm actually glad he did that, I'm had of hearing. Sorry, what? you're gonna have to type up. ![]() |
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