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 Post subject: Engine Lifting Brackets
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:36 pm 
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848cc
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Location: South Australia
Has anyone used these before, Engine Lifting Brackets.
http://www.toolworks.com.au/b7100-engin ... ckets.html

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:51 pm 
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Seems a lot of money for something that you can make from 12" of steel angle and a drill. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:54 pm 
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1275cc
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That seems a lot of money for what it is.

Just buy some L-bar and drill a few holes in it

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:55 pm 
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beat me to it morris :D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:00 pm 
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DaveLS1275 wrote:
Has anyone used these before, Engine Lifting Brackets.
http://www.toolworks.com.au/b7100-engin ... ckets.html


The problem with that particular tool shop is that they are sometimes......sometimes open and sometimes not........they don't have opening hours......

I just use a short length of 1/2" Chain between 2 head studs. If you were to buy it, might cost as much as 5 bucks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:08 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I do the same as GT does. The chain is to be had from Bunnings or similar, and you only need about 50 centimetres, but longer is not a bad thing. Slip a pair of decent gauge washers over the top of the chain and hand tighten down the cylinder head nuts.

Balance is not bad either, even though the balance point should be over the top of the dipstick I am told.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:24 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
Morris 1100 tow hooks are the go

:-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:46 pm 
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Just get a original engine lifting hook and use it on the front centre head stud. It works well and tilts the engine on the right angle to make it easy to fit. I along with everyone else I know in the mini scene have been fitting engines like this for years, and never broken a head stud yet.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:07 pm 
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Thats the one i use 850man, and its been used a billion times (not all by me!) without breaking a stud/bolt

For other engines which are often awkward, seatbelts are the go! Lifted a few cast iron v8's with seatbelts


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:10 pm 
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1275cc
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Here's one I made earlier....
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36503

As Morris1100 says, just drilling holes instead of welding a hoop will also work.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:25 pm 
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1310/71 wrote:
Here's one I made earlier....
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36503

As Morris1100 says, just drilling holes instead of welding a hoop will also work.

Your one works better because it tilts the motor slightly more. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:01 pm 
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998cc
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TheMiniMan wrote:
Morris 1100 tow hooks are the go

:-)


Do we add that to the "useful bits to steal of Morry 1100s" list? :)

You can't have mine though!

I've used old seat-belts for years, one slung under each end of the engine, has always worked for me and tilt is adjustable :)

cheers

Jacob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:04 pm 
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No worries. Where would be the rough centre of balance on a 1275. Is it better to put the plate across the 3 middle studs for a 1275. From what you are saying 850man, never breaking a stud on lifting from just the centre stud means that I would be creating more unnecessary work for myself creating a plate for the 3 studs.

Cheers,

Dave

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:09 pm 
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Ideally you want the hook about 20mm or so to the left of the middle head stud. (looking from front of car)
The flywheel & clutch makes that end of the engine heavier.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:00 pm 
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I made a bracket that lifts from the alternator mounting bolts (screwed all the way in!) - it's bang on centre of the weight, and the perfect angle


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