hi everyone,

does anyone know how to set up the SCA digital, automotive Multimeter to test a smiths voltage regulator in a mini k? like what settings do the dials and things need to be. AC or DC, its a bit over my head. i cant seem to find out how to do it, its probrably really easy but im just super stupid.

thanks for any help.

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1969 mini k

You would obviously want it to read 12V. It would be DC, so set it for the range that most closely matches that - I think it is 0-20V DC to measure Voltage; Ohms to measure resistance (though NOT in this case mentioned).
KB

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You can't really test an instrument voltage regulator. They are electromechanical devices and either output the full voltage (around 12V, if the engine isn't running) or 0V. Basically they cut in and out so that their output averages out to 10V. With a digital multimeter you'll be able to see whether or not they are cutting in and out, but you won't be able to tell if they are doing 10V.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Yes you can test the Volt Stabilizer's output with a Multimeter But You Will need an analogue one. You will see the pointer going up and down but will not exceed 10 volts. If it is an Electronic Type stabilizer it will be steady on 10 Volts. A modern Digital Multimeter on an old bimetallic Stabilizer will show a lot of change too quick and you will not be able to read it.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I reckon if you have a capacitor it should show a level charge of a digital multimeter. Perhaps a relatively large cap and a 1k resistor in parallel across the output of the voltage stabiliser?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

People who ask these question don't know how to read or test with a Multimeter let alone incorporate testing with a capacitor in parallel. I try and keep my answers simple for everyone to understand.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Mick, the cap would charge to the peak voltage produced by the voltage reg, in the case of the original vibrating type, that would be the same as the input voltage.

It is a 'problem' that I have given some thought to and don't really have a simple answer for, when using a digital meter. As Convertable Minis saîd ^ about easiest way for most of us is with an analogue meter. A bit harder to come by these days. I thibk Dick Smiths still have one model and Jaycar recently re-introduced one.

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.a ... rm=KEYWORD

OK, some some guys here will probably now wonder which to get, digital or analogue?

If you were to buy only one meter, I'd say the analogue. They are more tedious to use than an auto-ranging digital, but far more universal.

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I find it hard to go back from a good auto-ranging digital multimeter. They're good for all but the odd conundrum like the one above when working from home...

Do the new analogue ones have extra protection from a dead short destruction if you leave it on Amps (with the current connections made) and try to measure voltage? It wouldn't be difficult if they hybridised the digital meter with an analogue movement I suppose..



That's the role of the resistor, it drains the peak value. Choose a value low enough to not overload the reg and the ripple will be removed as much as it is ever going to be.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

None that I've seen have protection on the Amps Range, likewise you should always select the highest voltage on the meter when measuring volts and turn it back one click at a time until you can read something.

Like I say, tedious......

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If you have an adjustable power supply (i.e with an adjustable voltage), you can raise the voltage until the output cuts out. This will be the regulator switching point.

I have a power supply that I use - I think it's from an old train set. Works just fine for testing such things.