okay,
Ive brazed up the slots but forgot to mark which was the longer one
Could you remember doc if the longer slot is on the side with the notch, aka on the side where the +15 is stamped.
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| Pulsar Dizzy Oil feed? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70309 |
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| Author: | kirby [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Pulsar Dizzy Oil feed? |
So Im modding a pulsar dizzy and I know there is issues with the oil feed but how are they fixed? The oil pickup on the dizzy shaft (Archimedes' screw) type seems to be spinning in the wrong direction in a mini i.e. anti clockwise so it wont pick up oil. How do people fix this? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:01 pm ] |
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That screw is designed to push oil out so it doesn't enter the dizzy- on a Pulsar it's mounted at the back of the camshaft. Every one of the 12 Pulsars I've modded was already packed inside with old HTB grease. I don't see any need for an oil hole, and my 1st one has been running 7 years or more. I just clean and repack them with Castrol HTB before reassembly. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
okay, Ive brazed up the slots but forgot to mark which was the longer one
Could you remember doc if the longer slot is on the side with the notch, aka on the side where the +15 is stamped. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:20 pm ] |
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I agree with Dr Mini. You don't need an oil feed to the dizzy, the last thing you want is a distributor filling up with oil. You just need to lubricate it properly before you fit it. My one has been working for years without any modifications. I know that a couple of people had problems when they first started modifying them but I bet they got one from a wrecker that was sitting in the weather for a while with a missing distributor cap. My one was very weathered when I got it, with rust on a lot of surfaces. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
kirby wrote: okay,
Ive brazed up the slots but forgot to mark which was the longer one Could you remember doc if the longer slot is on the side with the notch, aka on the side where the +15 is stamped. You are just lucky I did a sketch ... 
short one has the angled end, make it 8.3mm long one has square end, make it 8.7mm. I marked a bobweight before disassembly- but if you didn't, just assemble whichever way allows both pins to reach the end of the slots. |
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| Author: | MG Rocket [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 3:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Also make sure the star shape thing goes in the right way..... with the flat side trailing. Took me weeks to discover this....If it goes in the wrong way your top speed is about 70kph. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 3:05 pm ] |
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MG Rocket wrote: Also make sure the star shape thing goes in the right way.....
with the flat side trailing. Took me weeks to discover this....If it goes in the wrong way your top speed is about 70kph. Yep there are numbers/letters stamped on 1 side only, that goes UP. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I drilled an oil hole anyway, between the lower bearing and o-ring, angled up towards the cap, whether it will do anything or not remains to be seen but it only took two seconds and cant do any damage. Just to clarify you do braze the outer most ends of the slots to shorten them yes (i.e. NOT the ones closest to the center drive hole)
It was precision work indeed, especially considering the only reliable verniers I have aren't metric. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes you braze the outer ends of the slots only. I use nickel bronze rod instead of manganese bronze as it is stronger, harder, and less runny. I remachine the slots in the mill with a 5mm slot drill cutter, however they are easy to file, if you happen to have a round one 5.0mm diameter. Make sure you sand the lower surface flat, any lumps left will interfere with the bobweights. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:01 pm ] |
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while I'm asking question, black white is positive on the coil blue white is negative, the pulsar dizzy body ground is not needed the wire that did go to the lucas ground goes to the coil negative correct? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
kirby wrote: while I'm asking question,
black white is positive on the coil blue white is negative, the pulsar dizzy body ground is not needed the wire that did go to the lucas ground goes to the coil negative correct? correct, correct, correct, which wire is this... tacho? if so, yes. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The white with black stripe that used to go to the tab on the body of the lucas dizzy |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Leave it off for test. Need more info of car model and wiring. All that is usually on the coil (if in a roundy) is: +12V ignition wire to the + terminal, the black/white wire from Pulsar to the + terminal, blue wire from Pulsar to the - terminal, and if you have an electronic tacho, its feed wire goes on the - terminal. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 4:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How does one time a pulsar dizzy |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 26, 2011 4:37 pm ] |
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You use a timing light once running.. Initial timing- line up your timing marks on the flywheel or crank pulley for #1 cylinder , then turn the dizzy until the star wheel points align with the pole pieces (the 2 sharp bits of metal sticking up). It will start at this setting, then check with timing light. Disconnect vacuum advance (if used) for this. I use a `dialback' timing light to set max advance at ~4000rpm = 30° or so. This or a little less usually works best. |
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