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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:21 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:54 pm
Posts: 180
Location: blue mountains, nsw
another question: i`m having trouble selecting 1st & reverse gear when the motor is running.

1st is an absoulute sh!t to get into gear & reverse grinds it`s way in.

turn the car off & both gears are easy to select.

can anyone tell me what the problem is likely to be ?

thanks in advance
jayson


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:29 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
1. Clutch adjustment,
or,
2. Worn clutch arm, pins, etc- slave cylinder piston hitting circlip. Can be fixed with new clutch arm, heat/bend clutch arm, lengthen pushrod, or remove circlip. To check, see if pedal hits floor (it should).
or,
3. Wrong MC size (some Minis were built with a 0.7" MC but it doesn't move enough fluid when any bits get old and worn) use a 0.75" one.

[edit] the 0.7" clutch MC in question is the big plastic tank type, size usually marked on the body [.7]
Brake 0.7 tin tank ones don't fit the clutch side due to the tank/stud holes position.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:32 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:54 pm
Posts: 180
Location: blue mountains, nsw
thanks doc,will look into these.

cheers
jayson


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 4:36 pm 
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How was the primary gear bushes when you did your recent rebuild? Did you lube them properly on assembly?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 5:58 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:46 pm
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Location: Outback Mini Man
doc is right.

although there is one much much easier solution (which i NEED to do), ive replaced all the worn parts, adjust clutch its good for a couple of weeks and then back to grinding again 1st and reverse.

You can get a sump plug washer, brass one, and put it on the plunger before you put the clutch thrust bearing on, it makes the bearing closer to the clutch diaphram, therefore less travel for the bearing to move to get contact.

you do need to take the wok off to do this, but you can do that with the motor in the car, just a few finicky things to do before you jack that side of the motor up.

disconnect batter, disconnect the earth lead off the wok, and check anything else thats in the way, undo the engine mount under the wok, and remove both the steady bars from the top of the motor.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:08 pm 
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Location: Sydney
And take off the booster if you have one? Am I right, as I may have to do this one day........

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