Whats the best way to remove and strip an engine? remove it bit by bit from the engine bay or all in 1 go? we have access to a crane to get the motor out.

at the moment i think we are going to do it bit by bit but does anyone have any hints/suggestions?

fish and chips, Dylan

_________________
78 Leyland Mini - Prince

I was told all in one lot by the mechanic that removed mine.

Easier to get everything off once its out.

just like harley, drive around with the brake fluid reservoir cap off
fling it around a couple of corners, let the engine get hot
and hey no need for sanding the block back

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Yep - pull the whole kit and kaboodle out and pull it down once out. It is a good learning experience. I zip lock every nut and bolt and label as i go - I have a post box with about 15 zip lok bags in it along with the rods and pistons. When all is done - there isnt really much to them - just a big lump of iron and lots of zip bags....lol

My 998 is awaiting the final dipping and hone before assembling again then wrap in a pussers counter pane until this 998 in Henry expires(no sign of that happening in the near future!!! - they just go forever - just hit 175000km and still got as new compression and no whisps of smoke - they build them well!!)

Hooroo for now

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

_________________
Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Spot on...Zip bags are very hand as you have less chance or loosing each bolt and nut and it keeps them in one bag for each area

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

remove the radiator, remove the bolts in the bottom subframe engine mounts, remove the top engine steadies
remove any cables/wires/speedo cable
remove manifold/s
undo remote/rodchange gearstick mounts

leave dizzy, starter, alternator, clutch, head

Spaceboy, why do you remove the radiator & manifold?????? i can have the enine out of a mini & sitting on the floor in 27 minutes, there's no need to remove the radiator, just remove the air filter & neck of the carb/s & thats all the clearence you need.

Doogie

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

It does give you a little more room to move the engine around specialy with the clutch bolts and the extractors

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

because you leave the manifold attached to the exhaust so you dont go creating exhaust leaks or sommit.
And
the radiator comes out so you can reach the bottom engine mount bolts easier, but you can leave it aswell, depends if you can get under the car easily to access those bolts.

Its funny - when we were taking the engine out of my car - it took us a good 9 hours to get to a point where we were ready to pull it out - this time when I was working on the timing cover i had to undo the engine mounts to jack it up a bit and get a bit more clearance around the pulley - 15 minutes later and both the mounts were free.

The same as when puting the radiator back on after the rebuild we struggled for hours. This time I pulled out the radiator in 35 minutes and had it back on and full in 25. A ratcheting flexible spanner (sidcrome make good ones) makes like 15000% of difference, but I guess doing it once or twice is like cutting 70% of the time required.

If you captive weld your nuts to the engine mounts, they can be undone in 10 seconds, it's the 1st modification you should do to a mini.

Doogie

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

what is this captive weld you speak of?

does the bonnet need to be removed? it's a clubby. i know its easier to get a clubby motor out, can't remeber why though.

ok, gotta get my hands on the crane!

_________________
78 Leyland Mini - Prince

You have a nut & a bolt to hold the engine mount to the subframe, you then put 2 or 3 spots of weld to hold the nut to the engine mount, basically it holds the nut in place so it wont spin when its done up/undone the greatest mod you can do to a mini.

Yes the bonnet has to come off, grab a fine point texta and mark where the hinges sit on the bonnet, makes it easier to refit your bonnet.

Doogie

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

My choice is to remove the radiator first.
More manouverablilty

Huh? Remove rad first? what are ya, bloody stupid?

On a Clubby...
-Bonnet off. (put rags/blanket behind corners of bonnet so it doesn't hack up the paint.
-Grille/bonnet catch mechanism off. 6 Bolts on th top, one underneath, and four screws on the outer corners of the grille/headlight surrounds.
-Remove anything attatching engne to body (earth strap, soleniod, clutch slave, etc.)
-Remove alternator.
-Four engine mount bolts.
-Two engine steady (top) Remove at both ends!
-Drop the top balljoints. Remove driveshafts from inner CV's.
-Put gear lever in reverse. then pin-punch out the roll pin in the selector-to-gearbox change rod.
-Put chain through the Water pump/alternator mount, and at the other end use the bolt in the side of the clutch cover (nearest the slave cylinder)

LIFT!!!

Easy. Heaps easier than on a morry. Sorry to all those with roundies, but wjile my engine is on the floor and half-stripped, you're still fighting the remote housing on the back of the subframe.

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.