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| Re-wiring My 850 https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71325 |
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| Author: | MrFail [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re-wiring My 850 |
I have had a look through all i could find by searching. but i'm after a bit more info. I have been successfully convinced to jst ditch the old loom in my car and make a new one as it is; a) old and, b) been hacked into by the previous owner. I have looked on the usual websites for a pre-made one, But some of the AUS prices seem abit My car is just a 64 850 running a 1098, I do not wish to put in any accessories like stereo . Just relays for halogen headlights. Should I take this opportunity to switch my engine over to an alternator from the old 850 setup which is in there now??? Is there anything else I should be aware of in doing this myself?? Any tips from those who have been and done this before?? |
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| Author: | goodie [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just my 2 cents worth , but i think when you go to so much trouble to do a full rebuild, I'd also put in a new harness , yeah they might not be so cheap , but i think they are cheap insurance , and they look good when installed . |
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| Author: | Timbo [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've built my own looms before, usually by collecting up bits of other looms and grafting them together. Here's a few tips: Its very important to use a recognised colour code standard, (preferably the Mini one) because it makes it so much easier to trace faults. Do NOT even consider using those red , blue and yellow crimp on terminals, they are so low quality that it should be illegal to sell them. Preferably solder or use high quality crimp terminals with the correct crimp tool. Heatshrink is very useful to repair insulation if you have to join wires, get the dual wall type that is lined in hotmelt glue, its much better than the thin stuff. Don't use electrical tape to wrap the loom, even the highest quality electrical tape won't stand up to heat and fumes under the bonnet and will fall off or go gummy very quickly. If you aren't fussed about originality I like spiral wrap, it works well and is easy to undo, otherwise proper loom wrapping friction tape (it doen't have any glue on it) is the best thing to use. On an early 850 the loom should be braided, you can have braiding applied to your own loom by most of the loom making specialists. Or just buy one from one of the specialists, most will tailor one to suit any changes you want to make. Tim |
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| Author: | Monaco [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Try Minispares UK - they are about 120 pounds and not the $495 the Aussie sellers want! |
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| Author: | Mokesta [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you want to make one I have a brand new loom you can borrow for a few weeks to copy. M |
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| Author: | gafmo [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Totaly agree with Timbo on every aspect. While you have access to new wire I made mine up from three looms from the wreckers and the original loom. I doubled up on the heat srink and soldered every connect required. I also upgraded a number of major wire "Headlights & Mains" and hide most of it fromt he engine bay I replaced the Fuse box with a 8 Pin and re did the all white and brown wires
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Timbo wrote: I've built my own looms before, usually by collecting up bits of other looms and grafting them together. Here's a few tips:
Its very important to use a recognised colour code standard, (preferably the Mini one) because it makes it so much easier to trace faults. Do NOT even consider using those red , blue and yellow crimp on terminals, they are so low quality that it should be illegal to sell them. Preferably solder or use high quality crimp terminals with the correct crimp tool. Heatshrink is very useful to repair insulation if you have to join wires, get the dual wall type that is lined in hotmelt glue, its much better than the thin stuff. Don't use electrical tape to wrap the loom, even the highest quality electrical tape won't stand up to heat and fumes under the bonnet and will fall off or go gummy very quickly. If you aren't fussed about originality I like spiral wrap, it works well and is easy to undo, otherwise proper loom wrapping friction tape (it doen't have any glue on it) is the best thing to use. On an early 850 the loom should be braided, you can have braiding applied to your own loom by most of the loom making specialists. Or just buy one from one of the specialists, most will tailor one to suit any changes you want to make. Tim I'd agree 100% on the colour coding. Look in to it carefully before you start as if you have to buy cable, it adds up pretty quickly (for decent stuff). On the crimp Terminals, yes most are cheap crap, but please there are many that are not, it's just that the good quality ones are NOT available in supercrap, the good ones will cost around 50 to 70 bucks for a hundred and yes, they are GOOD. I like to use proper loom tape for wrapping my harness in, it make them look as neat as they'll ever look and very easy to keep clean. DO NOT use ordinary PVC tape, it's gets messy before long! I have found that loom tape is getting harder to come by these days. It's just a PVC tape, oil resistant and is NOT self adhesive. |
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| Author: | MrFail [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for all the tips guys. Yea, i'd be definately be using all the right stuff if i did decide to make it myself. I'd be getting all the proper materials (and lots of help) from one of my new friends who works at a reputable performance workshop in brissy (who just happens to need painting done I just need to suss out all my options, if i go for making custom one myself, getting a custom one made locally by someone else, or buy a new one from the uk (which i'd still have to modify anyway). |
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| Author: | 850man [ Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
check out these guys here in melb, they will have everything you need www.jaydeeautocables.com.au |
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