I'm going efi and I have no idea where to start to get my van tank to work for efi.

I know I need a high pressure pump and float bowl etc etc and my van tank moded

I'm sure a few have efi rover minis in a van? Can anyone help me out with a tank?

Can anyone mod my tank for me ready for fuel injection? And I'll supply parts beer cash my first born

I have info below and it looks like a lot of work? Surely there is an easy way.

http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/s ... elling.htm

Couldn't you just run a low pressure pump from the tank into a swirl pot. You could then run a high pressure pump and high pressure filter from the swirl pump up to the injector rail and run the return line back to the swirl pot.

I swear I have seen a diagram somewhere recently that broke it down like that. It was for a normal mini but I don't see why you couldn't just run a normal pump into a swirl pot and then have the efi coming off of it, that way no tank mods are necessary.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

I found where I saw it: http://www.canems.co.uk/pdf/injection_manual.pdf

It was on 'page 20' of that (actually page 11 of 33 in the PDF). I was thinking of the picture on the bottom right of the page.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Quote from another form, I want to get this to work but I'm a bit lost, just trying to get my head around it


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If you have less than 1/2 tank of fuel, under healthy cornering you can have your pickup sucking fresh air instead of fuel.

So instead, you have a pot that is basically permanently full.

This is initially filled by a small electric fuel pump (like a pump for a carb mini).

The the efi pump then sucks fuel out of the bottom of the pot, and the return from the fuel rail is into the top of this pot.

At the very top, you have another larger-bore pipe, which returns the excess fuel back to the tank.

What this means, is your main pump is always pulling from a 'full tank' albeit a small one, rather than the main tank which has the fuel sloshing to one side or the other (and hence allowing the suction pipe to suck air) under heavy cornering.

you certainly need a swirl pot and lift pump, otherwise you will have to ensure the tank never drops bellow half full, and then drive it like your Gran, which pretty much defeats the whole point.

It does mean that if you put on your slicks and drive around in a circle on full boost and less than 1/2 a tank, the swirl pot will eventually run dry (becuse the small lift pump is sucking air from the main tank) but the chances of this happening are zero in reality.

Thanks Nicky boy I'll check that out now

That link that I provided you basically just shows in a graphic what that quoted post from another forum says (well my understanding of it anyway!)

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

PM blueminivan . . . he may have some info to help you.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

AFK tonight. Phone only. I'll try to help out asap.

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'72 English Van...'72 Export Moke ...63' 850...KZ 750E1...'74 P76

thanks blue!

take your time mate! legend

Do you run an electric pump atm? If so then you just need a high pressure pump and a swirl pot and a few extra fuel lines.
Only part that takes effort is the return line onto the tank.

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Simplify and add lightness

Hi Nick. I'm home earlier than I was expecting.

My set up is very basic, low cost and quick but will give you an option on what you can do.

All I did was mount a second hand VL Commodore fuel pump on the rear sub-frame to draw out of the standard tank. I than fitted a truck tyre valve as high as I could under the mounting flange of the tank for the return line to join to.
I used the truck tyre valve because it involved no welding/brazing of fittings to the tank. I was lazy and I wanted it done now!
This involved drilling the required size hole for the valve to fit through. Insert it through the hole from inside the tank then fit and tighten down the nut on the outside. I used a copper washer on each side to seal the connection.
Although this is working fine for me and doesn't leak, it would pay, for piece of mind at least, to have someone braze on the correct fitting.
A high flow filter sits after the pump.

My mechanic mate wasn't convinced that the standard wiring was enough for the job so I fitted a relay and upgraded the active wire, running it straight from the battery via a fuse to the relay then to the pump. I presumed the VL pump pulls a few amps so I took his advice.

Hope this helps Nick. Feel free to ask anymore Q's.

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'72 English Van...'72 Export Moke ...63' 850...KZ 750E1...'74 P76

this looks easy actually

surge tank is the accepted norm for 'post-installing' efi into an older car...

http://www.efihardware.com/products/187 ... r-mounting

always adds some bling too! (these guys also do a cheap black jobbie if keepng costs down is on the agenda)

just as an aside..

where is the fuel tank in a van? where will you mount the surge tank/swirl pot?

i know cops down here would freak if they saw one in the back of a van ie the open cab of the car....

I have the surge tank in my van mounted under the floor in the middle of the rear subframe, plenty of room there

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Here's what I did for my tank, Silvia in-tank pump with an intank swirl pot.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... &start=180

'Bout halfway down. Might help you, might not, good luck.

Madmorrie