Greetings All.

I've swapped a Wand Diff housing with a Cooper remote Diff housing.

Everything looks OK, Except (LOL) - The two halves which create the Diff bearing hole(s), are about 10 thou out. Diff housing is a tad lower.

Out of interest I bolted it all together (without gaskets) and it all pulled together nicely. Cover plate bolts lined up. Cover plate inner flanges lock in nice.

Anyone had this problem?

How forgiving is this housing??

Alex

Leave the 2 dowels out- they don't do much when assembled and bolted up. This is preferable to having .010" vertical misalignment.
But measure the diameter each side when bolted together with the top and bottom gaskets in place.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Dr. Mini.

Will measure it up.

Cheers
Alex

The diff caps are fitted to the gearcase and then the diff bearing tunnels machined. They are matched to the case. Sometimes if you go through a pile of them, you can get one that matches up.

If yours is that far out, even after leaving the dowels out will likely lead to oil leaks.

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And possibly more prone to bearing issues? Potentially...?
Maybe I am just talking out of my bum

Tyson.

Mini people (including moi) have been doing this mod to 850s for years, ever since the Cooper (then all the others with remote boxes) came out.
As long as care with alignment and housing bore sizes is taken, oil leaks and diff bearing problems are seldom ever a problem.
I'm sure Matt theminiman will agree with me.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the feedback ALL.
Just spent a couple hours freezin in the shed. I'm pondering on my two options. I have a really good Cooper box (inners) and a complete wand box with with crappy inners. As I'll have to disasemble to fit new bearings, seals and shims etc, I might try and rebuild the wand to avoid mis-alignment. It's becoming a learning expirience!

I've removed most parts but have become confused. I printed out a good (22 page) "How to" assemble a box, but can't seem to read it to dis-assemble a box?

I have the mainshaft sitting there. Have removed the four bolts, shim and retainer from the speedo end. Have removed the small bearing, big nut and huge circlip from the clutch end. Both the bearings are still in place. I've removed the outside caps (2) and removed the springs which retain the selector. The assembly script talks about the ball/spring retainers on or under the gears which I presume I have to find. But I can't???!!! The two selector gismo's are still in place. I can't see getting these off until after the gears come out.

Is there a Gearbox "How to" for Dummies somewhere, or a Youtube instruction for "Disassembly" preferably in simpler terms. With the parts lists, assembly instructions and manual, each part seems to have several names?


Alex.
I'll have a BEX and sleep now!

You have to drift the mainshaft towards the clutch about 20mm, then put a spacer with the side cut out (ie horseshoe shaped) between the big bearing and the 1st gear hub. I have made these from nylon, a bit of pipe, or even wood in the past.
Then, drift the mainshaft back towards the speedo end to push the big bearing (almost) out. A screwdriver will finish it.
Watch the synchro hubs don't separate during all this movement or you will lose the balls and springs within.
Once the bearing is off the mainshaft, you can tilt the shaft up at the clutch end and remove it complete with gears.

Look carefully at the nose of the mainshaft where the needle bearing runs. If the surface is flaking, you need another shaft. Or send it to me and I'll recondition it by fitting a roller bearing inner race.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When I waded into my gearbox, I used I think the same how-to you have now found. I simply read it backwards and it sorted itself out. I also kept a digital camera by my side and took a picture every time something came off in my hand, showing the way it faced when it came off, and the number of parts that came with it. The camera would number the pictures sequentially, so it was no problem to get the sequence right. There's enough little questions about the way things face to make this a worthwhile venture.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

yes i do,,, to a point,,, but in know that you know the point i`m talking about too,,, so it`s ok

but,,, i must say that i`d "prefer" to have everything lovely & nice & correct "With" the dowels,,, it`s just that often the need for the change to a different housing outweighs the need to make things "Perfect" , without spending stoopid amounts of money being too damn annal

so,,, yes i agree Doc (& yes you knew that)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks DrMini and Mick.

I'll be able to sleep better tonite.

Appretiate you fella's "in da know".
(and the people reading, I know your out there! LOL)

Alex.

Greetings again.

Just to update you's All.

As DrMini recommended, I gave the mainshaft a wacko! and slid a 20mm bit of PVC tube with a cut-out so it popped over the shaft next to the centre bearing and it worked a treat!

The springs/ball bearings stayed in place UNTIL I fiddled with it (Damm!) they shot out like a gun. I heard them ricochet around the shed. Found 3 springs and 1 ball bearing. Doesn't matter as I have spares in the donor box!

Thanks All,
Alex.

Alex sounds like you are having fun mate

I move from Lameroo in a fortnight to live at Tailem Bend.

Must come and check out your car some time soon. It is on my to do list

Regards
Allan

Pulled the diff cover off my MKII S Gbox yesterday and found the threads for the bolts that join the remote are cactus. I was thinking of swapping diff covers too, or getting it helicoiled?

Are mini deluxe diff covers the same? Can I use one if it lines up ok? I have a couple of them.

Might be easier to helicoil it.

Cheers.

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Now with 2 extra ports!

Yes the diff housing on a Deluxe is the same casting as the Mk2S etc.
Bolt it up and measure the bearing tunnels for size and ovality, with the paper gaskets on.
Sometimes you get lucky, try the ones you have.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.