blue_deluxe wrote:
And imo youd be better off upgrading to discs and reconditioning everything with the money, so making sure your brakes are top notch and pull straight, your steering is smooth and has no play.
Told yah Matt.
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| 4 point roll cages https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71973 |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | 4 point roll cages |
Hi, as you may know I'm just a kid and I'm in the middle of restoring a mini, the issue of safety has come up in convo with my folks and they don't mind spending the money if it makes the car safer. I have a mini sunshine so i would like to keep it as original as possible so I am thinking about a 4 point roll cage that lets me keep the rear seats. I have received a few mixed opinions on them and i would like to know if they actually make the car safer or are they just for looks and handling reasons. So does this sound like a good investment or just a waste of money? cheers, matt |
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| Author: | paul_ewins [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you are just driving on the streets then it is probably a waste of money. If you are competing in speed events (sprints and hillclimbs) then it is a good idea and if you are actually racing then it will be required. I've got a four point cage in my deluxe, but it has a diagonal cross brace behind the seats that make it difficult to get into the back seat (which as a consequence has been removed to satisfy the RWC tester). It needed big holes drilled into the rear pockets and parcel shelf to bolt the cage in which is kind of the opposite of a restoration. While a properly assembled and installed four point cage is better than no cage, if you are competing then a six point cage (with hip bars) that is welded in place is probably a better idea. I'll probably do that myself at some point, even though I only compete occasionally nowadays. |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i plan on doing khana's but i may consider doing hill climbs when i'm older, putting holes in it isn't a problem for me, i dont think i want the cross brace. and if i get anything it would have to be a bolt in one |
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| Author: | DA9jeff [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
DO NOT put the rear brace bars on the rear parcel shelf. They should go back to the "top" of the rear wheel arches,parallel to the sides of the body,the top welds of the brace bars at the top bend of the hoop There is no strength in the parcel shelf even if you weld it properly. 44.5mmx2.5 wall tube 3 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the hoop feet, 2 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the brace bars. Get hold of a CAMS Manual...schedule J PS... If you are 14 ,you can start Hillclimbs now. |
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| Author: | blue_deluxe [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just make sure you set the rollbar back far enough that your not going to hit your head on it in an accident. And imo youd be better off upgrading to discs and reconditioning everything with the money, so making sure your brakes are top notch and pull straight, your steering is smooth and has no play. |
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| Author: | Lockie91 [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
blue_deluxe wrote: And imo youd be better off upgrading to discs and reconditioning everything with the money, so making sure your brakes are top notch and pull straight, your steering is smooth and has no play. Told yah Matt.
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| Author: | Irish Yobbo [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
blue_deluxe wrote: And imo youd be better off upgrading to discs and reconditioning everything with the money, so making sure your brakes are top notch and pull straight, your steering is smooth and has no play.
I would strongly agree with this. Drum brakes can work well, but they need to be regularly adjusted, and they will never be as good as discs. I would suggest on upgrades that prevent accidents first, then focus on upgrades that protect when accidents do happen. |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yer, i plan on getting 7.5 discs with ap calipers |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
what other things should i recondition to make it safer? |
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| Author: | Beanie [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
New Seat belts .. |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
DA9jeff wrote: DO NOT put the rear brace bars on the rear parcel shelf.
They should go back to the "top" of the rear wheel arches,parallel to the sides of the body,the top welds of the brace bars at the top bend of the hoop There is no strength in the parcel shelf even if you weld it properly. 44.5mmx2.5 wall tube 3 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the hoop feet, 2 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the brace bars. Get hold of a CAMS Manual...schedule J PS... If you are 14 ,you can start Hillclimbs now. i want to see if i can find one that is already made and i didn't think the parcel shelf would be strong enough, and i think i have the pdf of the cams manual, and i think i will learn to drive first then decide if i want to do hillclimbs |
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| Author: | CARTER_GT [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
123grosso wrote: DA9jeff wrote: DO NOT put the rear brace bars on the rear parcel shelf. They should go back to the "top" of the rear wheel arches,parallel to the sides of the body,the top welds of the brace bars at the top bend of the hoop There is no strength in the parcel shelf even if you weld it properly. 44.5mmx2.5 wall tube 3 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the hoop feet, 2 X8mm/grade 8.8 bolts for the brace bars. Get hold of a CAMS Manual...schedule J PS... If you are 14 ,you can start Hillclimbs now. i want to see if i can find one that is already made and i didn't think the parcel shelf would be strong enough, and i think i have the pdf of the cams manual, and i think i will learn to drive first then decide if i want to do hillclimbs Matt Hillclimbs will teach you to drive. Good work boys your telling a Boy who wants to possibly hillclimb to not put a cage in his car, what if he has an off? If he rolls the thing, the roof will probably cave in. Matt i say put a cage in, you have got a MK1 cooper S motor going into it the brick is not going to be slow you will want all the safety you can get. And in a day and age as cars are getting bigger and drivers getting worse all it will take is a hard hit resulting in a roll over and your gone. As it is going to be a daily driver i would put a cage in it. You can get removable digonal cross braces whic makes easy access to rear seats |
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| Author: | 123grosso [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
it is NOT going to be a daily, just a weekend car |
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| Author: | Monaco [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would invest in making your car road/race worthy and some driving lessons first and then drive within your limits. As you get quicker, then give some thought to a rollcage/harness. You may have some difficulty registering your car with a rollcage and a rollcage without a helmet on can do more harm than good - seeing you mentioned weekend use. |
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| Author: | CARTER_GT [ Thu Jul 21, 2011 4:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Monaco wrote: I would invest in making your car road/race worthy and some driving lessons first and then drive within your limits. As you get quicker, then give some thought to a rollcage/harness.
You may have some difficulty registering your car with a rollcage and a rollcage without a helmet on can do more harm than good - seeing you mentioned weekend use. I would rather dong my head on a roll cage then the roof crumpling into my head. like honestly.... |
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