Just looking at some options and I'm not sure what would be a good item for a high power mini (1360-1380 A+) daily drive.
From what I can see the lighter the wheel the higher revs it's suited for but dose this make it worse for stop start traffic?
Will a super-ultra-light wheel warp or get damaged with constant hard driving?
What should I be looking for?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

It depends... IMHO the lighter the better. The effect is quite noticeable. I've been using an 8lb flywheel and matching fabricated lightweight back plate for 20 years in my daily driver. You do need to be more precise with gear changes but it doesn't take long to become second nature....

The flywheel won't (shouldn't) warp. However a l/wt flywheel has a l/wt ring gear - and this IS fragile. Been through a few over the years.

Cheers, Ian

Get a Matt Read or DrMini flywheel....

Matt has a few that he makes that are very light and will last the testament of time...

Doc machines existing assemblies down 200 thou or something and sheds the Kilos! Ive got one of them in my moke, faaaaark it makes a difference, easier cranking, pulls better, as 1071 said you have to get better at your gear changes, but it only takes a spin or 3 to master it.

Both very good options, as you must keep in mind that what ever way you go, it will need to be properly balanced, buying one from UK will usually be good and all, but why not support our local boys

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I have seen one lightweight steel flywheels that was too light, ie. flimsy. it warped when they welded the ring gear to it...
So I would not use a Mini****** light steel race one on a road car... but their light steel road one is OK.

The ones I lighten, (like mattsmadmini's)- I face .200" off, then face another .100" off- but this only down to the edge of 3 slots.
Some other people put bloody big holes, or slots in 'em too... but IMO for the road you don't need to go this far.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i put bloody big slots in mine

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

MED do a very high quality one as well, and bloody cheap.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

I would think it would be better in stop start traffic. The lighter flywheel is of benefit when the motor is accelerating as the engine 'sees' less load. Once a constant speed is reached the is no difference. I worked out my lightened wheel is the equivalent of removing one body from the car- the difference in performance will be like with or without a passanger in the car - you will notice it on acceleration but not cruising down the highway.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Wombat,
The only thing you need to watch in traffic is you don't stall it when you let the clutch up. Otherwise, it's all good.

Beware of lightening the backplates by facing thinner, or grooving the back in a lathe- Benjamin had one go BANG! in his turbo. Lucky for him it all exited thru the front..
He now has a light steel one to go with his grey dot diaphragm.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I found that a lightened flywheel in my WRX I owned was great for acceleration and deceleration, but yeah, in traffic it was a PITA. You had to stab the accelerator a lot more in stop start traffic, even just to nudge forward.

In a mini I barely noticed any problem. The mini is naturally very torquey down low, and/ or the light weight of the shell makes it essentially a non-issue.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I have a Dr Mini special, no complaints, no desires to upgrade either

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Is their a concern about the cast ones shattering?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I think when lightened they are pretty safe to 7500 or 8000, but if going racing I'd want a steel one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

be aware when buying these steel flywheels they need balancing.. mine was pretty much unbalanced.

So how did you go about doing the balancing ?
Is it like having a wheel balanced or does it have to be done in situ on the crank ?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

You normally balance the flywheel when you do the crank (during a rebuild)- however most balancing shops have a balanced crank sitting there, just for doing random people's flywheels.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.