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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:22 pm 
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Hi guys, upon looking through my heap of parts, I found my new headlights (pictured below) that I bought ages ago, and totally forgot I had them to fit. :lol:

I have either lost the instructions or they didn't come with any, so for people who have fitted these type, could you please explain to me how they go together?

What sort of globes have people used in this type of headlight. I only want for this type, not others please. I've heard speculation that only certain bulbs can go into these, as they are Crystal eyes. I want bright lights at the front, so something decent. I will be installing relays on both high and low beam just for information.

Also to me it seems fitting that the lights around the edge should be hooked up onto a separate switch for show only. I don't exactly want mr plod pulling me up for this. Have any done this? Or do you run them colored and take the risk?

The last 2 questions I have is does the wiring plug on the end of the car fit the globes? I presume it would? Nothing needed to change there right? and does the blue insert just slip over the small light itself? It wont get hot and burn with the bulb on since its on the glass?

Any help, much appreciated guys. I'm not very good when it comes to electrics so want to make sure I've got everything sussed out, before I pull things apart.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Hey Lockie, ask Convertible Mini, he will have all the answers to this.

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:28 pm 
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Panthersteve wrote:
Hey Lockie, ask Convertible Mini, he will have all the answers to this.


yea I thought of lovely Tony. But he does this for a living, and I don't want to bother him with my stupidity questions :lol: Thought maybe someone else could enlighten me :) Poor bloke must get boom bared with it all the time.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:35 pm 
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From the photo it looks like it takes H4 globes, which are probably the most common headlight globe. The standard sealed beam headlight connector will plug onto a H4, but it would be wise to add headlight relays while you've got it all apart.

Andrew


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:41 pm 
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Lockie91 wrote:
. I will be installing relays on both high and low beam just for information.


afh001 wrote:
but it would be wise to add headlight relays while you've got it all apart.
Andrew



:? :? :?

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 1:39 pm 
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Panthersteve wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
. I will be installing relays on both high and low beam just for information.


afh001 wrote:
but it would be wise to add headlight relays while you've got it all apart.
Andrew



:? :? :?


oops... My apologies :oops:


Another thing, make sure you get a decent quality globe (phillips,osram etc) not SCA or other chinese junk. A quality one will be brighter for the same wattage and will have 2 or more times the lifespan.

Andrew


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:07 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
The globes are called EDIT:H4 Halogens and are available from any auto shop. don't feel compelled to go for high wattages, you only rob power from the engine, annoy oncoming motorists and make wiring a bit more of a challenge.

The lights will fit as straight replacements for the existing sealed beam units you probably have, plug and all. However, its important to fit (like Steve said above) a relay to power the new lights. You should also replace the wires from the relay to the light, as well as the negative from the light to the chassis. If you keep them the same, the wires usually are not up to the job and will heat up in use. Its well worth the relays and the work once done.

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Last edited by Mick on Tue May 24, 2011 5:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:32 pm 
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And please do NOT go for the blue tinted globes.
Anything bluer than ultra white and you'll be pissing everyone off! :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:14 pm 
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Are these headlights or driving lights?

H4 globes are common for headlights, H3 for driving lights. This is because the H4 bulbs are a dual filament (for high and low beam). You can usually see a little plate in these to stop the light from going too high on the low beam filament.

The H3s are a single filament, so perfect for driving lights.


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:23 pm 
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Irish Yobbo wrote:

H4 globes are common for headlights, H3 for driving lights. This is because the H4 bulbs are a dual filament (for high and low beam).



ooops, you're right. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 4:44 pm 
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Ive got the outers wired separately into another switch. And i have the blue outers just pushed over the bulbs.

Image

Pretty sure i had to cut the headlight buckets out, but not 100% sure. When your driving they dont give much extra light if any. More just a blueish tinge. If you search for 'angel eyes' you might get a few hits.

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 5:04 pm 
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how do you wire in the relay???
I have similar headlights all ready to go in mine.
I've test fitted them, and they fit without any hassles at all FYI :wink: .

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
You have the original lighting wire switch on a relay coil instead of the light.
You can use a changeover relay, but I generally use a pair of common single pole automotive relays. Easy to get anywhere and cheap.

So have the blue/red or blue/white wires from the cabin go to the coil terminals on each of the relays, and ground the other side of the coil. ( relay terminals 85 & 86)

Have a supply feed from the fusebox go to one contact on the relay, and then the other contact goes to the headlights using a suitable gauge quality wire. (relay terminals 30 & 87)

There will be one relay each for low and high beam, you can save wire by using the supply feed to double out to each relay as well as the same for the relay coil ground wire.

There's been any number of threads on this over the years if you dive through search.

Looking at Lockie's lights, I can see now from the park light globes that he will have to cut a hole in the light bucket to get them to fit. You don't need to wire them into the park lights however, but the globes seal the light from water getting in. If they're plastic bucket lights, you won't be able to put high wattage H4 globes in or the plastic bucket might deform from heat.

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Mick wrote:
You have the original lighting wire switch on a relay coil instead of the light.
You can use a changeover relay, but I generally use a pair of common single pole automotive relays. Easy to get anywhere and cheap.

So have the blue/red or blue/white wires from the cabin go to the coil terminals on each of the relays, and ground the other side of the coil. ( relay terminals 85 & 86)

Have a supply feed from the fusebox go to one contact on the relay, and then the other contact goes to the headlights using a suitable gauge quality wire. (relay terminals 30 & 87)

There will be one relay each for low and high beam, you can save wire by using the supply feed to double out to each relay as well as the same for the relay coil ground wire.

There's been any number of threads on this over the years if you dive through search.

Looking at Lockie's lights, I can see now from the park light globes that he will have to cut a hole in the light bucket to get them to fit. You don't need to wire them into the park lights however, but the globes seal the light from water getting in. If they're plastic bucket lights, you won't be able to put high wattage H4 globes in or the plastic bucket might deform from heat.


hey thanks guys for the info. Been really helpful so far.

What Mick is saying here, is what I was worried about. I have plastic buckets, I pissed the metal ones off when I restored the car, stupid rust buckets they were.

Are you serious as to if I put high wattage ones in, that it would melt the bucket? I wouldn't have thought it to get that hot??

Has anyone else got this running with plastic buckets?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:06 pm 
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We're talking high wattages here. 90/130s perhaps.

60/55s will be ample once you have the halogen bulbs in. Bump them up after that if you are wanting more.

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