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Spraying enamel
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73056		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  carter [ Fri Sep 16, 2011 5:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Spraying enamel
G'day fellas just wandering. I'm painting my car at the moment and am spraying in enamel the problem is it's orange peel effect how do you avoid this? And also I'm going 10% thinners to paint ratio what do you fellas do? And recommend I have backed the air off on the gun as max as it can go also. Thanks for all replies in advance
Author:  raisto2 [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 1:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
i'm guessing you've already gotten well into the painting and having not done it myself yet, i'm not sure if this will help at the stage you're at, but it seems to be a rather good and should answer your problem.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63720
Author:  Lockie91 [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 1:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Spraying enamel
carter wrote:
G'day fellas just wandering. I'm painting my car at the moment and am spraying in enamel the problem is it's orange peel effect how do you avoid this? And also I'm going 10% thinners to paint ratio what do you fellas do? And recommend I have backed the air off on the gun as max as it can go also. Thanks for all replies in advance


i think for you justin, it comes down to preparation. :lol:

Make sure you use some wax and greese remover directly before paint goes on, as it sounds like your surface is contaminated with something. When I saw the car the other week in the driveway it was looking pretty dirty with sap, so i suspect there is still some sap off the trees on the car.
Author:  MrFail [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
contamination won't cause orange peel.... But it can cause silicone or wax spots. If it is actually orange peel, that can be caused by a few different things: Paint too thick, Poor operating spray gun, poor spraying technique thru either innsuficent overlap of strokes or gun held too far from panel.
These are the obvious things i can think of off the top of my head.
If its wax spots or contamination. this is caused by a whole different lot of problems. Most of which are fixed by correct and thorough preperation. like lockie said.


The biggest question i have is... Why are you painting your car with enamel???
Unless you are on an Ultra tight budget, it is not really a good idea. IMO
Author:  Lockie91 [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 7:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
MrFail wrote:
contamination won't cause orange peel.... But it can cause silicone or wax spots. If it is actually orange peel, that can be caused by a few different things: Paint too thick, Poor operating spray gun, poor spraying technique thru either innsuficent overlap of strokes or gun held too far from panel.
These are the obvious things i can think of off the top of my head.
If its wax spots or contamination. this is caused by a whole different lot of problems. Most of which are fixed by correct and thorough preperation. like lockie said.


The biggest question i have... Why are you painting your car with enamel???
Unless you are on an Ultra tight budget, it is not really a good idea. IMO


^^^^what he said.. Tim is the expert painter :wink: Your coming round to paint my engine bay soon aren't you Tim :P :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Author:  Angusdog [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 9:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
MrFail wrote:
The biggest question i have is... Why are you painting your car with enamel???


I'm guessing here that it's acrylic, not enamel (i.e. if it's not 2K it must be enamel). 10% thinning sounds too thick so check the instructions on the tin. I've found it's better to be slightly too thin than slightly too thick. Later coats I'll thin it down even more. Orange peel isn't the end of the world as if the paint thickness is up to it, let it harden fully then polish the orange peel away. Fish eyes (from contamination) etc demand repainting though.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
It could also be `spraying enamel,' it is still used on industrial equipment.

Years ago (1968) after an abortive 1st attempt at painting my 850 with acrylic lacquer, I got it professionally resprayed in Castrol Green enamel.
It looked a million dollars... :P 8)
Don't use the quick dry stuff though, it fades too quick.
Author:  carter [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey got it worked fairly well not as good as I would have liked but is heaps better then b4 I strted spraying. The reason I'm using enamel is one I don't have to buff and polish it all the time and two it's a harder paint which won't get stone chips or scratched as easy
Author:  MrFail [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
carter wrote:
it's a harder paint which won't get stone chips or scratched as easy

Who told you that??? :?
Enamel is OLD technology.
it will certainly scratch and chip.
Author:  carter [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
hmmm. i have used acrylic before as well just was told that enemal is a lil harder when acrylic isnt baked on just a yard job
Author:  Wombat [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Enamel gives you a gloss out of the can - I used it in the engine bay but will use acrylic for the rest
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Enamel hardens OK with time.
Early Minis were baked enamel, and after all these years it's hard as compared to acrylic.
It takes a while to dry though- the biggest problem when painting is every bug in creation wants to land and get his feet wet before it's dry. :evil:
Author:  carter [ Sun Sep 18, 2011 8:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes I agree doc. I just found with my yard job acrylic it was always getting scratched or chipped and I was constantly fixing them
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