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 Post subject: crank
PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:15 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:07 pm
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Location: tasmania
Hi, all just pulled motor down to find out i had broken the crank what i would like to no what is required to stroke a crank thanks . The crank i got is a large jnl with nos 1505 stamp on it :?: :?:


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:20 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Airport West
you will need a set of 521 cooper S rods, get your crank crack tested { cross fingers} hope its ok then get it offset ground to suit the cooper S rods. i think you end up with 83.8mm stroke if you use std bearings.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:23 pm 
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I got mine to 84.33 stroke with std bearings- mind you, it was standard to start with.
Could/should have got even more by grinding it a bit further undersize...:mrgreen:

Note- you will need to machine about 1/32" off the width of the S rods to fit the crank..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: crank
PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:27 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:07 pm
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Location: tasmania
how far under size do you go crank is at 30 under now needs machining again


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:42 pm 
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I am building a motor for an ausmini member at the moment, with a stroker crank. The crank was 1.750 -.060", it has now been offset ground to 1.625 -.030". Stroke increase was about 2.0mm.
Bearings are still available at -.040", and the owner has a set of -.060" squirelled away, in case.

Although the crank was already -.060" and obviously had done a lot of work, it was NOT cracked.. it's the 1st thing I check when I get a crank. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:49 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
best to start with a std crank,,, that way you get the most out of it

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 10:32 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
best to start with a std crank,,, that way you get the most out of it

Very true- however if you do own a worn one it's still worth doing, rather than leaving the stroke at standard.. :wink:
How's the stock of -.080" bearings going these days, Matt? :mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Stroking Cranks
PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:50 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:57 am
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Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
Always make sure you get the crank Nitrided when stroking. Not cheap but worth doing.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:03 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: queensland
only problem is you run a good chance of it coming out looking like a banana

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:03 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
Mine was -.010" and I ended up with 1cc less than Kevs at the end of all the offset grinding.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:39 pm 
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I'm building a stroker (for a road car) at the moment with a `scatter crank'..:mrgreen:
When the owner passed it on to me it was already at -.060", and we wondered why. Spiro then offset ground it to [S size -.030"] but found #4 crankpin had already been restroked in the past, probably because it had damaged a crankpin somehow.
Anyway, long story short, this crank has been stroked 2mm on 3 cylinders and by 3mm on #4. I decked #4 piston more to keep deck height of all 4 the same.
We'll keep you posted on how it runs.. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:07 am 
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Location: Brisbane
OOooo,,, i don`t like thems ones, i had customers with "Thingts" like that before... not a very even "Banging" going on inside,,, not a very well balanced thing at all

YUK

but hey... if it`s only a little out then it`ll "sort-of" be like a low comp in one pot,,,sort-of :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:57 am 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
OOooo,,, i don`t like thems ones, i had customers with "Thingts" like that before... not a very even "Banging" going on inside,,, not a very well balanced thing at all

YUK

but hey... if it`s only a little out then it`ll "sort-of" be like a low comp in one pot,,,sort-of :-)

Don't worry Matt, it's only going in a Morris 1100. What's a few extra vibes...you probably won't feel em in that, they have real engine mounts.:mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Location: Brisbane
hee hee,,, yeah like a late model jap car, soft & goo-y,, :-) no worries tho, they go & go & go,,, & not going to be reved so not really an issue,,, seen em plenty of times before, soooo may crank grinders make a boo-boo with differing strokes, happens all the time , especially on the old machines where it`s all left to the opperator to make em all the same length (& angle i might add :-) ) just don`t like em is all :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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