| ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/ |
|
| Stripping Paint https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73271 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | Mike Montgomery [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Stripping Paint |
Hey Guys This weekend I'm hoping to get stuck into the 850 and want to try remove as much of the paint as I can. What is the best way to do this? Orbital sander? Grinder with wire wheel? Obviously want to try protect the shell at the same time. |
|
| Author: | Angusdog [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I tried a lot of methods and much prefer one of those scotchbrite-type disks. I have some large ones which fit my polisher, probably 175mm in diametre, and they make relatively quick and clean work of removing paint. 115mm ones in an angle grinder work fine too, just beware that they work best on flat areas; edges etc can tear them up so they don't last as long. Wire heels are okay, but not as easy to use and slower. WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Obvious I know but the wires ping off really fast and hurt! I've tried stripper, including the 'cover it in cling film' method, but I personally don't like it. I found it tends to remove one layer at a time, it's expensive and horribly messy. One wee dot of the stuff on bare skin stings. Some people prefer using stripper though. I have a sandblaster which is great for seams, corners etc, but the grit gets everywhere and it's more expensive in terms of kit and consumables. Do you have a bare shell that you can dip or send away for blasting? I think I'll try that next time because although it's expensive, it's a long and messy job whichever way you go. |
|
| Author: | MrFail [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
All of what Angusdog said is pretty much on the money. Especially the last bit. While it might be a decent chunk of money to get the whole shell blasted, the results will be much better than you will ever get with sanding or stripper. And yes, doing it yourself will make A LOT of mess . In general, paint stripper and acrylic don't go together very well, it just makes a runny mess, rather than lift it relatively neatly like it does with 2pak. |
|
| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've only done a small area but I understand this will also work on a big area. (worked OK in a small scale) - coat with paint stripper and cover in glad wrap. Leave to 'cook' the peel off the plastic and the paint comes with it. |
|
| Author: | michaelb [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes I prefer paint stripper. $40 for a 4 litre tin at Bunnings, cant remember the brand but the tin is yellow. Probably used 3 tins to strip my car and then sand blasted to remove the rust as I dont think a wire brush can remove the rust as well as sandblasting. Good luck. |
|
| Author: | Mike Montgomery [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cheers guys |
|
| Author: | coopar [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 3:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used diggers paint stripper (yellow can) and a combination of the tin foil method, wire brushes, paint scrapers and the angle grinder with brumby wheels in them. Best was i found was layer on the stripper, cover in tin foil, let it do its business, remove foil. wire brush it gently (less splashing) then when dry hit it with the brumby wheel. The worst is spraying wet stripper everywhere. Repeat if the layers are stubborn. |
|
| Author: | 1970minik [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is my eftort with a 1 inch paint scraper. I tried most things and I have used a 3m type wheel from Bunnings for some areas. I would say about 95% was done with the paint scraper 
Not really much mess was made ( just sweep up the paint flakes ), I didnt have to go back to bare metal so no need to really etch prime, It will certainly take a lot longer than sand/soda blast but Ive just saved $2000 at least, plus for me the personal satisfaction that I did it Just my 2c |
|
| Author: | Gordo [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Angusdog wrote: I tried a lot of methods and much prefer one of those scotchbrite-type disks. I have some large ones which fit my polisher, probably 175mm in diametre, and they make relatively quick and clean work of removing paint. 115mm ones in an angle grinder work fine too, just beware that they work best on flat areas; edges etc can tear them up so they don't last as long.
If we're talking about the same thing these are the way to go for me. These plastic mesh wheels for a grinder are great, easiest way to explain them is like steel wool but plastic and will fit a grinder. As said be careful near edges as they will catch and chew up. Flat surfaces works a treat, for corners and seams and things still probably need to use a wire wheel or sand blast them FYI bunning sell (well used to anyways) these striping discs |
|
| Author: | blue_deluxe [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Gordo wrote: Angusdog wrote: I tried a lot of methods and much prefer one of those scotchbrite-type disks. I have some large ones which fit my polisher, probably 175mm in diametre, and they make relatively quick and clean work of removing paint. 115mm ones in an angle grinder work fine too, just beware that they work best on flat areas; edges etc can tear them up so they don't last as long. If we're talking about the same thing these are the way to go for me. These plastic mesh wheels for a grinder are great, easiest way to explain them is like steel wool but plastic and will fit a grinder. As said be careful near edges as they will catch and chew up. Flat surfaces works a treat, for corners and seams and things still probably need to use a wire wheel or sand blast them FYI bunning sell (well used to anyways) these striping discs Are they a hard plastic sea weed disc? Might have to pick a few up and give it a go. And I think acid dipping would be the best way. No sand or grit to clean out of everywhere |
|
| Author: | 123grosso [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think there was a post somewhere that says the dipping gets in behind the seams so it will rust down the track |
|
| Author: | blue_deluxe [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
123grosso wrote: I think there was a post somewhere that says the dipping gets in behind the seams so it will rust down the track
Depends on how you treat it afterwards, and how far down the track are you looking? No matter how meticulous you are, within 5 years of use a car will be showing signs of rust. |
|
| Author: | 123grosso [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have no idea, i just remember reading some info, i dont know anything on that topic |
|
| Author: | 123grosso [ Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is the post http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... al+dipping |
|
| Author: | Gordo [ Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
blue_deluxe wrote: Are they a hard plastic sea weed disc? Might have to pick a few up and give it a go.
And I think acid dipping would be the best way. No sand or grit to clean out of everywhere Yes they are a hard plastic mesh type wheel |
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC + 10 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|