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 Post subject: Ramflo filter
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:38 am 
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Have just bought a NOS ramflo filter for my weber and on the box it shows there should be an inside metal cage under the foam, is this necessary as it was not included? Cheers James.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:55 am 
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i've got a ramflo on my SU (with a finer filter foam in it - the ramflo foam is considered poo poo)

as far as i'm aware the inner metal cage stops your motor eating the foam...

i'm sure someone with more knowledge will be along soon...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:25 am 
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Yes you DO need the cage bit, as woodwormm said.

Finer Filter's foam is no more, they got bought out by Unifilter years ago.
Use Unifilter's foam pad LNX400 for your oval Ramflo Weber filter, or LNX300 for the round SU one.

The original Lynx foam is crap, it crumbles when old.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:34 pm 
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Thanks guys I have a unifilter to go in. Any idea where to get just the inner cage, anyone have a spare kicking around?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:28 pm 
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tracytracey wrote:
Thanks guys I have a unifilter to go in. Any idea where to get just the inner cage, anyone have a spare kicking around?


http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/shopping/default.asp
The cage is called `inner basket', p/no is RF400CS.
Won't be dear... :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:36 pm 
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make sure you oil it with proper filter oil


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:41 pm 
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i am guessing you do not need to re oil the pre oiled new unifilters


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 6:37 am 
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tracytracey wrote:
i am guessing you do not need to re oil the pre oiled new unifilters

True, they are pre-oiled when you get them.
The oil contains a flame retardant, so whenever you wash it out, re-oil with unifilter oil. Their dirt catching performance depends on them being oiled too.

For people that say Ramflos/Unifilters don't work, you would not believe the amount of road grit etc that comes out when I wash mine (every 5000 miles or so). :shock:
No way in the world I would run a road car with NO filter.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 10:09 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
For people that say Ramflos/Unifilters don't work, you would not believe the amount of road grit etc that comes out when I wash mine (every 5000 miles or so). :shock:
No way in the world I would run a road car with NO filter.

Amen to that,
After racing in the dust at Hay mine is a nice dirty brown on the outside and clean oily foam on the inside.

I have found the foam gets compressed over time and shrinks a bit so it doesn't contact the back plate properly.
The best thing to do at the end of washing is to put it in a bucket with soapy hot water (as hot as your hands can handle) and swish it around a bit, it will puff back up to the original size and be flat again, then rinse out all the detergent and re-oil.

Here's the oil i found, available at what uesd to be Coventry/motortraders, now bursons here in SA.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:34 am 
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Yeah the FF oil is good if still around (I'm surprised it is, Unifilter closed the Rydalmere FF factory near 10 years ago), Unifilter's oil is good too. Both are VERY sticky.
Do NOT use ordinary motor oil... :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:50 pm 
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i prefer a k&n element in the standard doughnut style airbox,

on the filter box it says even though it is pre-oiled it should be oiled before use.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:48 pm 
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re Tracytracey's Weber Q above-
Unless you have a Weber box with no centre speedo and so can fit a BIG K&N, there's no way a decent flowing K&N will fit on a sidedraft Weber (as Lillee found out the hard way- and he does have a Weber box + a centre speedo).
Exception- the old Lynx gooseneck `Z shaped' manifold- but they don't flow any good with a 45 Weber on.

Sure Super-mini, a K&N is great in the HS4 SU's donut case, I agree. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:04 pm 
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I read somewhere a while ago, that the amount of oil you put on the filter, can make an affect on the flowing abilities of the filter. and the article sugested that the oil that some pre-oiled filters had on them, was more than necessesary, so they advised to clean the new pre-oiled ones and apply your own controlled ammount of oil.

From memory the article did contain results "proving" the theory on a flow test bench too.

Any thoughts on this????

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Yes don't over-oil them, when re-oiling I put them in a plastic bag and squeeze out as much as possible.
It's pretty hard to over-oil a Unifilter, as you can see daylight through the foam! They don't have much oil when bought new so I doubt your article applies..

But it is well known that re the K&N cotton filters, it is VERY important not to over oil these. You need to follow their instructions to the letter. They clog airflow really badly when over-oiled.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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