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Speedwell Racer
 Post subject: tow hooks.
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:30 pm 
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Location: Howrah, Tasmania
How do you guys support the subframe when you put tow hooks in as they fit into the front subframe mounting points?

Image

Image

this is the spot people put tow hooks correct?

And does anyone know the size of the bolt in the first picture?

Cheers, Rhys.

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Harley
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:37 pm 
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I think normally that bolt is a 5/16 UNF.
What I didn with my car was put a 3/8 UNF bolt through that hole, from the back, and I have a 3/8 towhook that screws to that.
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Speedwell Racer
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:26 pm 
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The bolt has A UNF on it with three lines.
Whats this mean?
Do these bolts actually hold the subframe in at the front? Or do they just help hold the front apron on?

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1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
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1071 S
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:01 pm 
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Well they hold the subframe and front panel together ...and vice versa :)

Some cars came with eye bolts from the factory.

Just take the plain bolt out and fit your tow hook. Nothing will move...

Cheers, Ian
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Speedwell Racer
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:16 pm 
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So it should be fine to whip one out in the morning and take it with me for size matching?
And nothing will move.

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1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold
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bnicho
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:05 pm 
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Yes, it will be fine if you don't drive that car. I wouldn't drive with it like that as the front panel may flex.

Don't get the cheap ones from Bunnings etc. They are designed for plants not cars and bend or break very easily! Proper Mini ones are much stronger.

Cheers,

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bnicho
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:27 pm 
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Yes, it will be fine if you don't drive that car. I wouldn't drive with it like that as the front panel may flex.

Don't get the cheap ones from Bunnings etc. They are designed for plants not cars and bend or break very easily! Proper Mini ones are much stronger.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2
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Speedwell Racer
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:37 pm 
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bnicho wrote:
Yes, it will be fine if you don't drive that car. I wouldn't drive with it like that as the front panel may flex.

Don't get the cheap ones from Bunnings etc. They are designed for plants not cars and bend or break very easily! Proper Mini ones are much stronger.

Cheers,


i wont be driving it as ill be at school.
What places do you recommend i get them from?

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold
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drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:08 am 
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Speedwell Racer wrote:
The bolt has A UNF on it with three lines.
Whats this mean?
Do these bolts actually hold the subframe in at the front? Or do they just help hold the front apron on?

3 lines = it's a Grade 5 hi-tensile bolt. [fyi, 6 lines = grade 8]
Yes they hold the subframe to the body, which adds some rigidity to it.

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awdmoke
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:33 am 
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Speedwell Racer wrote:
i wont be driving it as ill be at school.
What places do you recommend i get them from?


I found the ones in the boating section of BCF were of a high quality and quite cheap. The eye is welded properly, not just bent over like the Bunnings jobbies.

Make sure you get 2 nuts and washers - you must have one each side.

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Irish Yobbo
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:44 am 
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bnicho wrote:
Don't get the cheap ones from Bunnings etc. They are designed for plants not cars and bend or break very easily! Proper Mini ones are much stronger.


No don't buy the cheap ones from Bunnings etc, but you can buy the expensive ones from Bunnings etc. Just make sure they're the high tensile ones which are more expensive.
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Speedwell Racer
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:01 pm 
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Got expensive ones from bunnings. high tensile etc.

Edit:
sorry didnt get them from bunnings. My dad got them and when i got home i saw a bunnings recipt and just thought they were bunnings ones.
Apparently he got them from nubco cheap.
Grade 8 hi tensile,
Galvanised anti-rust,
Ends are bent over and have a tac weld on them.
Guy at nubco said alot of people get them for race cars as they are strong.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold
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