Just trying to figure out what I should be getting in the way of lightened steel flywheel and clutch setup.
The engine is a 1990 A+, vetro clutch. It will have a 8v BMW twincam head, bored out to 1360 and have around 11:1 comp ratio.
I'm looking at this flywheel http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... EG622.html

What's the difference between these clutch kits
http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... 122AF.html

http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... K9064.html

They seem the same to me just a different title dose anyone know the difference?
Will I need to get a pressure plate aswell or is that all covered in the clutch kit?
Anyone got suggestions or ideas let me know.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

The difference between the clutch kits above is most likely two things, first being the obvious difference in manufacturers, the second is the heavy duty one might have a stronger pressure plate to transmit more power before it slips.

If it's more convenient to you, you can ditch the verto and fit an older style aussie clutch, makes it easier to get parts in the future.

Pressure plate comes in the clutch kit, with a new thrust bearing and the centre bolts, and hopefully the outer set of screws too.

The non-Verto clutch/flywheel assys are lighter and less complicated, much cheaper too.
The only advantage? I can see with a Verto is reduced pedal pressure (for the girls among us).
However if your non-Verto clutch is real heavy to push, it ain't set up right.
Read and digest http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm
I run an orange dot rally diaphragm in both of mine, they grip fine and are not heavy (after setup as shown).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so what's involved in converting to non-vetro?
From memory the alloy clutch cover is the same it's just the slave cylinder, throwout arm and ell the stuff inside the housing, the cranks are the same correct?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

You need the clutch and flywheel, plunger, thrust bearing and the long arm and spring.
Wok, crank, and slave cylinder can all be used as you have them.
(its funny, a verto slave on an aussie clutch is easier to bleed than standard, and an aussie slave on a verto is easier than standard too. It's like the designed them and changed them on purpose to make the job of bleeding difficult!)

The Minimania article recommended by Doc is a top read.
But it does not mention the effect of having a word crank tapper. If the tapper has been cleaned up or linished a few times, or the flywheel taper is worn, the flywheel goes on further. I have seen cases where the out flywheel face (where the big keyed washer fits) is nearly level with the end of the crank.
Does the normal adjustment overcome this, or does the slave cylinder piston hit the circlip prior to disengagement.
When I had this, I put a thin washer under the thrustwasher, and clutch worked without issue.
Any views on this?

Try the standard MED kit, not a bad price, all balanced, and you can choose which diaphragm spring you want (normally orange for a “worked” 1275).

Yes if it goes on too far you run out of adjustment.
Then you can either-
fit a washer behind the bearing (good idea)
bend the arm (not so good idea)
leave the circlip out of the slave cylinder after fitment (might seem a dodge but it works fine)
lengthen the pushrod in the slave cylinder.

A bigger worry with the flywheel on almost flush is it can hit the C-washer and lock up the primary gear.
The engine I'm doing now needed the flywheel's recess bored .050" deeper to clear, I could see it was touching before.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

All of the bold happened to mine.

I needed the washer under the bearing to prevent the arm locking in the plunger. To see what I mean, move the arm in the plunger while it is out of the car and you can see how far it has to go to lock up.

Got the clutch to work fine. But I managed to torque the flywheel up against the c-washer which meant the taper was not locked. Result was the key washer was taking all the torque and snapped, allowing the flywheel to spin.

I did salvage the crank with a bit of polishing by Spiro at St George Crankshafts (top bloke).

Thanks to Kev, I have a new flywheel center that goes on to the taper at least 5mm less than the one that had the problem. All it needs is to be changed into the light flywheel and balanced.

There is obviously a minimum difference between the end of the crank and the flywheel that needs to be there to prevent all of these problems.

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
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