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High power, light flywheel & clutch???
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73947		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Kennomini [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:16 am ]
Post subject:  High power, light flywheel & clutch???
Just trying to figure out what I should be getting in the way of lightened steel flywheel and clutch setup.
The engine is a 1990 A+, vetro clutch. It will have a 8v BMW twincam head, bored out to 1360 and have around 11:1 comp ratio.
I'm looking at this flywheel http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... EG622.html
Quote:
Product Description:
Mini Sport designed and developed ultralight steel flywheel will improve performance of your engine and clutch.
Includes ring gear and necessary spacer blocks require to fit.
This flywheel would be ideal for use in hill climbing or sprints where medium-high revs are used.
Please contact us for more details on full applications of this specific flywheel

What's the difference between these clutch kits :?:
http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... 122AF.html
Quote:
Product Description:
Unipart / MG Rover 3 piece brand new clutch kit to suit Mini 1275cc Cooper, 1990-1994
Kit Includes:
* 180mm Sprung centre clutch drive plate
* Clutch Diaphragm
* Release bearing
* 6 bolts
Suit Mini 1275cc Cooper Carb, 1990-1994

http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... K9064.html
Quote:
Product Description:
Quality original equipment 3 piece brand new clutch kit to suit 1275cc Minis and Turbo with verto type clutch, 1982 on
Kit Includes:
* 180 mm Sprung uprated centre clutch drive plate
* Clutch Diaphragm
* Release bearing
* 6 bolts
Suit Mini 1275cc and Turbo Mini with Verto type clutch, 1982 on

They seem the same to me just a different title :? dose anyone know the difference?
Will I need to get a pressure plate aswell or is that all covered in the clutch kit?
Anyone got suggestions or ideas let me know.
Author:  Harley [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:31 am ]
Post subject: 
The difference between the clutch kits above is most likely two things, first being the obvious difference in manufacturers, the second is the heavy duty one might have a stronger pressure plate to transmit more power before it slips.

If it's more convenient to you, you can ditch the verto and fit an older style aussie clutch, makes it easier to get parts in the future.

Pressure plate comes in the clutch kit, with a new thrust bearing and the centre bolts, and hopefully the outer set of screws too.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
The non-Verto clutch/flywheel assys are lighter and less complicated, much cheaper too.
The only advantage? I can see with a Verto is reduced pedal pressure (for the girls among us). :lol:
However if your non-Verto clutch is real heavy to push, it ain't set up right.
Read and digest http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm
I run an orange dot rally diaphragm in both of mine, they grip fine and are not heavy (after setup as shown).
Author:  Kennomini [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
so what's involved in converting to non-vetro?
From memory the alloy clutch cover is the same it's just the slave cylinder, throwout arm and ell the stuff inside the housing, the cranks are the same correct?
Author:  Harley [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
You need the clutch and flywheel, plunger, thrust bearing and the long arm and spring.
Wok, crank, and slave cylinder can all be used as you have them.
(its funny, a verto slave on an aussie clutch is easier to bleed than standard, and an aussie slave on a verto is easier than standard too. It's like the designed them and changed them on purpose to make the job of bleeding difficult!)
Author:  IndigoBlueCooperS [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 7:49 am ]
Post subject: 
The Minimania article recommended by Doc is a top read.
But it does not mention the effect of having a word crank tapper. If the tapper has been cleaned up or linished a few times, or the flywheel taper is worn, the flywheel goes on further. I have seen cases where the out flywheel face (where the big keyed washer fits) is nearly level with the end of the crank.
Does the normal adjustment overcome this, or does the slave cylinder piston hit the circlip prior to disengagement.
When I had this, I put a thin washer under the thrustwasher, and clutch worked without issue.
Any views on this?
Author:  IndigoBlueCooperS [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 7:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Try the standard MED kit, not a bad price, all balanced, and you can choose which diaphragm spring you want (normally orange for a “worked” 1275).
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 7:57 am ]
Post subject: 
IndigoBlueCooperS wrote:
The Minimania article recommended by Doc is a top read.
But it does not mention the effect of having a word crank tapper. If the tapper has been cleaned up or linished a few times, or the flywheel taper is worn, the flywheel goes on further. I have seen cases where the out flywheel face (where the big keyed washer fits) is nearly level with the end of the crank.
Does the normal adjustment overcome this, or does the slave cylinder piston hit the circlip prior to disengagement.
When I had this, I put a thin washer under the thrustwasher, and clutch worked without issue.
Any views on this?

Yes if it goes on too far you run out of adjustment.
Then you can either-
fit a washer behind the bearing (good idea)
bend the arm (not so good idea)
leave the circlip out of the slave cylinder after fitment (might seem a dodge but it works fine)
lengthen the pushrod in the slave cylinder.

A bigger worry with the flywheel on almost flush is it can hit the C-washer and lock up the primary gear.
The engine I'm doing now needed the flywheel's recess bored .050" deeper to clear, I could see it was touching before.
Author:  mickmini [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:55 am ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
IndigoBlueCooperS wrote:
The Minimania article recommended by Doc is a top read.
But it does not mention the effect of having a word crank tapper. If the tapper has been cleaned up or linished a few times, or the flywheel taper is worn, the flywheel goes on further. I have seen cases where the out flywheel face (where the big keyed washer fits) is nearly level with the end of the crank.
Does the normal adjustment overcome this, or does the slave cylinder piston hit the circlip prior to disengagement.
When I had this, I put a thin washer under the thrustwasher, and clutch worked without issue.
Any views on this?

Yes if it goes on too far you run out of adjustment.
Then you can either-
fit a washer behind the bearing (good idea)
bend the arm (not so good idea)
leave the circlip out of the slave cylinder after fitment (might seem a dodge but it works fine)
lengthen the pushrod in the slave cylinder.

A bigger worry with the flywheel on almost flush is it can hit the C-washer and lock up the primary gear.
The engine I'm doing now needed the flywheel's recess bored .050" deeper to clear, I could see it was touching before.


All of the bold happened to mine.

I needed the washer under the bearing to prevent the arm locking in the plunger. To see what I mean, move the arm in the plunger while it is out of the car and you can see how far it has to go to lock up.

Got the clutch to work fine. But I managed to torque the flywheel up against the c-washer which meant the taper was not locked. Result was the key washer was taking all the torque and snapped, allowing the flywheel to spin.

I did salvage the crank with a bit of polishing by Spiro at St George Crankshafts (top bloke).

Thanks to Kev, I have a new flywheel center that goes on to the taper at least 5mm less than the one that had the problem. All it needs is to be changed into the light flywheel and balanced.

There is obviously a minimum difference between the end of the crank and the flywheel that needs to be there to prevent all of these problems.

cheers
michael
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