What ignition systems do people recommend for a “fast road” 1275 A+?

The Megajolt will cost around $350 plus freight with a new Megajolt Lite Jr.and secondhand bits.

The Aldon will be around $320 plus freight. This is for an electronic one and would be purpose built by Aldon in the UK with the correct curve for the engine build, and not the standard red or yellow.

Can you still get the second hand bits for the Megajolt (as per the How To post by Simon K).

The new distributor will have minimal scatter, and with the correct curve should not need much work. Easy to set up and forget.

Any other recommendations?

With a Megajolt, YOU can make the ignition map perfect for the engine.

I fail to see how Aldon in UK can tailor a `perfect' curve into a centrifugal advance? dizzy when (I assume) the engine has been custom built here. How would they know it is right? (yeah I know they advertise this service, but these days I and others call BS).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mega jolt. massive step up over a dizzy or go one of them new 123 usb dizzys.

I have been running Megajolt for around 4 years now and it has never given me a problem, from the first fire up the engine has run much smoother than any of the electronic dizzy's i have tried plus you can tune it to be as precise as you like, bit of time on a dyno and your done, so it can be a little more $$ but i think it is much much better than anything on the market.

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

again for megajolt - no spark scatter caused by one or all of

worn timing sprockets
timing chain
distributor gear on the cam
distributor drive
distributor drive dog
distributor bushes
etc.

When I check my timing after having the crank angle sensor off, I lock the timing at 10 degrees across the whole load and rev range. Last time I did it, I couldn't find the timing mark - eventually I realised it was hiding right under the pointer on the wok, and because it doesn't move, I couldn't see it until I moved my head and got it on an angle

I've set up a car with a 123/Tune - pain in the arse

spot on simon or he could buy a 5 port injection kit

I too would go a Megajolt!
The dizzy is only 1 curve for 1 setup. Megajolt can be changed / reprogrammed if you change your engine setup in any way in the future!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Thanks for the comments.
Sounds like the Megajolt is the way to go.
A bit more cash up front, and a bit more time setting it up, but worth it in the long run.

Looks like the best place to buy them is direct from the USA.

How much cash for megajolt all up? How does that stack up against 123 programmable?

I think the Megajolt will come in at a little over $350. This is with a new box from the USA and second hand parts as per the how to post.
The 123 is listed at $550 on their web site.

Check out Triggerwheels.com, they do a complete kit
This is where I got my kit from

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

That's $350 including the Ford EDIS, trigger wheel, coil etc?

I haven't actually seen a price for the programmable 123 yet, I'm guessing it won't be $550AU.

Same i found then to be the best a bit more cash
But it's a nice harness all done plug her in of you go!

Mine cost me a bit under $300 in total. That's going from a distributor and normal coil to the megajolt in the car and running. When I put one in dad's car, it was closer to the $220-$230 mark because he got the EDIS gear cheaper than I did.

However, Autosportlabs don't do a solder yourself kit anymore which bumps the price up.

Talk to Ben ('92') about a trigger wheel and sensor bracket if you don't want to make it yourself.

Go for the Hyundai coil as per Andrew's ('afh001') suggestion in the how-to. Much nicer to work with than the Ford item. Easier to mount, and takes normal leads

Buying from triggerwheels in UK is an expensive way to do it, but that's the price you pay for the whole lot delivered in one box.

This is looking quite attractive. Might put a few dollars aside for this and just get the engine back in with my Pulsar dizzy first though.

I'm not sure if I'll need to drill/tap my Romac HB to suit the trigger wheel or if it's already got suitable points. Any tips for making the changover easier later with the engine in-situ?

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Too many cars, and too little time.