So I am About to start marrying the gearbox to the new short motor and reassembling the rest of the motor.

what tips, hints can you seasoned mini specialists offer?

what do I need to be mindful of in the assembly?

what should I avoid doing in the first place that could stuff things up?

What should I look out for??? Tolerances etc???

you get the drift I want to do it right the first time the easiest way with out costing more bucks should I go about it the wrong way

Cheers

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fit the half moon seal to the engine, the timing plate holds it in place between the plate and the front main bearing cap

I hang the block from my engine crane so that it's sitting nice and level, then I crack the hydraulic valve and let it slowly slowly come down, guiding it into place nice and easy

Some (including Dr Mini) like to tip the engine upside down and place the gearbox on top of it.


but make sure you've done your idler gear clearances before you put them together, too late afterwards

I fit the box to the engine, upside down on the engine stand for a few reasons:
1. It is all up at working height so you can see what you are doing.
2. The gearbox is lighter to lift than a block is. Even easier with 2 blokes holding the box.
3. You can see the 2 dowel pins in the block whilst lowering the box on vertically.
4. It is much quicker to tighten all the bolts from above.
Due to this better control there is way less chance of the 1/2 moon seal moving during the operation. I have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Simon, it is possible to check and rectify idler gear clearance with the box already on the motor- I have made a DrMini tool to do this.
2 of these tools exist- mine, and one I sent to Portugal.
note- the bent bit of wire pushes/pulls the idler gear in and out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Or you can just use a piece of dentist putty. Bolt the drop gear case on, remove, measure squished putty slice and choose shim/washer whatever you call it) to match.

Cheers, Ian

dont forget to check the clearance between the box housing and main studs. if ur using arp bolts , nuts and washers u may need to remove the washers on the outer main caps and machine the stud down 3mm

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

cheers guys

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I assemble it upside down too.

Make sure all sealing surfaces ar uber clean and dry too.



Little hijack,
What do the mini gurus use for gasket / half moon sealant?
I've found loctite 515 / 518 seems to do ok.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

I use Loctite 515 master gasket, just a light smear. It is an anaerobic sealant (sets when there is no air).
I hate people that used silicone sealants (like on this 1360 I'm building now)- the stuff squeezes out and gets absolutely everywhere. It had totally blocked the lube holes in the diff side covers, no wonder the bushes were overheated and worn.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.