my old donk had head bolts
about to fit head to new motor but can only get studs

Question is when fitting studs how do i tighten them into the block??

do i need to use a sealant? ie do any of them go through to the water jacket??


Doc ???????

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oh and what ryco filter fits a spin on conversion????

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ARP studs have allen key on the stud. Don't overdo them. Doc can confirm torque.
They should also come with a special lube/sealant and need re-torquing after a run or two.

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

When screwing the studs in to the block, hand tight to about 4 ft/lbs is quite enough. Fit 2 nuts to each stud an lock them together to 'tighten' the studs in the block.

If these are the latest Rover Studs and Nuts (P/Ns CAM150, CAM151 & Nuts CAM4545) the correct final torque on these is 50 ft/lbs.

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be very gentle though, it's not hard to squash the threads together and wreck the studs

I have a set of stud removers that go over the stud and grip it with a cam action and screws them in/out

I prefer 2 nuts locked together and I have never buggered a stud.
I got the 2 heater studs removed from a head this week, the guy used one of these new fangled stud remover socket things- afterwards the nuts wouldn't screw on. I could see flats on the threads. Had to run a die nut down em.
They might be convenient, but IMO they bugger the threads..

Unless Simon you are talking about the old `2 round plates and an eccentric' sort, these work OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

no, they're the type that would bugger the threads, but with head and rocker studs, the cam grips below the thread, so no chance of damaging it. Hence I don't use them on manifold studs, unless the thread is already rooted

what really makes me cranky is when vice grips are used to unscrew studs, and teeth marks are left along them...

To answer the rest of your question, No the studs don't go into water jackets
so no sealant is required. It is however good practice to make sure the threads in the block are clean and that the block hasn't pulled up around the holes. As in forming a volcano around the bolt hole. This can easily be rectified by running a drillbit just enough to remove the raised surface.

And the ryco part number for a spin on filter is Z418


And as Pristic mentioned a lubricant that may come with new bolts/studs, this is intended to be used on the thread on the bolt and on the surface of the nut or washers. So that when they are tightened all the contacting surfaces are lubricated. You can use oil for this if you don't have any provided.

I know that the arp studs only get put into the block finger tight ... No need for two nuts locked together ...

Beanie

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I am the son of the STIG

HOTBRICKS
http://hotbricks.org.au/

'65 NCF MINI.....
'69 MINIMATIC.... 9 year resto still on the go

Yeah even original studs I don't force in. However, you often need the 2 nut method to get the original buggers out.
I've had 2 headstuds lately that some dill had Loctited in- I needed ye olde heat gun as well as the 2 locknuts to get em out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

filters you can use are-->

Z82
Z62
Z418

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.