Hello all, have fitted new mstr cyl,slave cyl bled and ajusted as per the manual and still cant get into gear!! I have heard of people bending the clutch lever to resolve clutch engagment???
Cheers tsb

Stu . . . Stu . . . Stu. If it is all new then you should not need to bend the arm. Maybe you have a shorter push rod in the slave cylinder? - I have seen short and longer ones ( in fact I have seen short ones extended by welding a piece on the end).

Could be the the pressure plate height (the DOC will explain this). Lets hope not because it would have to come out.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

I have also heard that a slave cyl pushrod out of an early ford falcon will do the trick as well . I have an adjustable one that i bought off ebay ages ago , but i haven't seen the same type around since .
Providing that everything is ok internally, your standard mini one should work , there are so many different pieces to the clutch puzzle that it can take a while to nut out the problem .What size bore has the M / cyl ?

.70 i think

Don't bend it ...

Buy a new arm and bearing carrier and it will be all sweet .. And in reality they aren't that expensive ... if all that doesn't work then ya have a real problem ...

Beanie

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I am the son of the STIG

HOTBRICKS
http://hotbricks.org.au/

'65 NCF MINI.....
'69 MINIMATIC.... 9 year resto still on the go

First off I'd fit a 0.75" clutch MC- the 0.7" ones don't move enough fluid- they barely worked right when the car was new.

General wear in the clutch arm, pivot pins and the throwout plunger can result in the slave cylinder piston hitting the circlip, which stops further clutch travel.
The same thing happens over time as the flywheel gets lapped further onto the crank.

Solutions (assuming you've replaced arm and throwout plunger first):
1, Put a washer behind the release bearing to move it in 1.5mm approx.
or,
2. Heat and bend the clutch arm (not recommended, but people do).
or,
3. Lengthwen the slave cylinder pushrod by welding 5mm or so onto it.
or,
Remove the circlip from the slave cylinder and bin it.

All the above will stop the piston hitting the circlip, so achieve the same thing.

[edit] Note also that (according to a well known Mini parts place in NSW) the plastic seal spreaders in these latest slave cylinders are made the wrong shape. If you have problems with seals leaking or sucking air in, use the plastic bit out of your old slave cylinder.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There are 2 different length push rods on the arm (that goes in to the slave). The Early ones are short. The difference between them is about 1/2". Sorry, I don't have the overall lengths of them to hand, but if you buy a new one, it will be the longer of the two. Often, this is all that is needed instead of bending the arm.

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Ok thks all, i have just tried a longer version of a push rod and hey presto! Seemed to do the trick, so will fit a new longer rod.