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| Engine mounts https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74672 |
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| Author: | michaelb [ Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Engine mounts |
I am struggling to get the engine mounts to line up with the subframe holes? It doesnt seem to be an issue with the holes but how thick the mounts are? I am using a different subframe to the original but they all should be the same width between the engine mounts? They are close but not close enough to fit the bolts in. I had thought about removing the engine tomorrow and clamping the mounts in a vice for a few days? Any other ideas? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:19 pm ] |
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As I said in your gallery thread there are 3 different mounts. It is not the subframe that's the problem. 1. Genuine Rover mounts fit pretty good. 2. Mounts with captive nuts are too thick. 3. Quinton Hazell mounts have 4mm error in the hole spacing from 1 plate to the other (compared to original BMC mounts). I can fix these in the mill in 10 mins by slotting the holes. I have these slotted mounts on both my motors, the bolts fit in nice like originals. 
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| Author: | michaelb [ Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:26 pm ] |
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Thanks Kevin Not sure what type/brand they are? Came from Karcraft I will lift the engine out tomorrow and examine closely and maybe slot the holes a couple of mm |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:28 pm ] |
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Quinton Hazell ones come in printed + sealed plastic bags- I got mine from karcraft. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:17 am ] |
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Here's a pic of my slotted hole Quinton Hazell one. Once slotted these bolt straight in, no swearing or incantations needed. 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:17 am ] |
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Oops, double post. |
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| Author: | michaelb [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 12:04 pm ] |
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I have ordered some more mounts from Karcraft, hopefully genuine. And I will have another look at the issue tonight, plus I will try and get the radiator closer to the engine, only need about 5mm as the radiator is just touching the shroud |
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| Author: | adios57 [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 1:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Engine Mounts |
I had the same problem and rather than go with Docs advice I left the engine sitting in the subframe for about one week after getting two of the bolts in. Still didn't work. One of the guys here recommended using a phillips head screwdriver to wangle them in on the other side. I remembered that this is what I had done back in the day (1980) and went and got the same old blue turner screwdriver that sits in my old commodore set of tools and got under and wangled them in. Use the point of the screwdriver to pull the mount over to the hole. Insert one bolt for each side underneath the subframe. Use an open ended spanner to put the nuts on. Put a bit of tape or blu tak to hold the nut in place. Washers can be placed with a long nosed pliers and push the bolt through as you begin to tighten them each in turn the same amount. Do not put any of the upper engine steadys on until you have the engine mounts bolted to the subframe. Have a mate holding the engine and moving gently as you locate the bolts. You can get the mounts with the captive nuts but I think Doc pointed out that they can work out no better. Another way that I used on the weekend to put the rebuilt three core radiator onto its lower mounts was to use a light piece of wire to hold the bolt upright while I manouevered it into the holes through the small hole in the inner wing over the brake pipe and then once it had threaded to pull the wire out. I twisted the wire into a sort of handle. That tool has been put into the tool box, to be used on another day. |
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| Author: | Goldbrocade_62 [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 2:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've had the same problem so I bought some from the defunct mini spares Padstow and they fitted perfect |
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| Author: | Fiji [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:29 pm ] |
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Has anyone had success with the captive nuts I have some that I haven't yet fitted. Surely there's a way. 
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| Author: | DA9jeff [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:49 pm ] |
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The last time I made a risque comment about lining up bolts/captive nuts on engine mounts, Matt laughed so much he had his first Heart attack. I apologize for that Matt.
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| Author: | PDJ [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had the same problem. I got some Genuine Rover ones from Minispares uk. Holes where fine but they were too thick by about 2mm. 
I tried to knock em down with a length of wood from the top. Tried the screwdriver wiggle with no luck. I then tried a good old mount from my local friendly mini man (solid type, not the "S") and that was too big 
So I now have 2 31 year old engine mounts back in my Moke. At least they match the 31 year old engine steady’s (new ones were too small) 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:15 pm ] |
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PDJ wrote: I had the same problem.
I got some Genuine Rover ones from Minispares uk. Holes where fine but they were too thick by about 2mm. I tried to knock em down with a length of wood from the top. Tried the screwdriver wiggle with no luck. I then tried a good old mount from my local friendly mini man (solid type, not the "S") and that was too big So I now have 2 31 year old engine mounts back in my Moke. At least they match the 31 year old engine steady’s (new ones were too small) Phil, buy a couple of QH ones and I'll mill them for ya. Fiji, the threads in those captive nuts are cheese. I had a new one in mine before with a std BMC one at the other end. I stripped the thread in the captive nut when tightening it, it was then an angle grinder job to get the mount off. I mill the QH mounts and then tack weld real nuts inside em.
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| Author: | Fiji [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:21 pm ] |
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No worries doc thanks |
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| Author: | Aussie Brian [ Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:36 pm ] |
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I recently went through this frustrating exercise of new engine mounts and ended up making a 3mm wire rope sling that fitted through the offset in the mount i then just levered it down with a bar from under the car against the subframe and bingo lined up swell . The Brian sling is now part of my tool kit  .
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