Any sealant should do really, but make sure both the faces are clean, and use the paper gasket, not the cork one.
Cork ones tend to squeeze out...
As for sealants- I use either Permatex/Loctite #3 aviation cement, or Loctite 315 master gasket.
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| gasket sealant?? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74732 |
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| Author: | tsb [ Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | gasket sealant?? |
what do you recommend, got a leaking thermostat housing?? dont think my current sealant is too good? tsb |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Any sealant should do really, but make sure both the faces are clean, and use the paper gasket, not the cork one. Cork ones tend to squeeze out...
As for sealants- I use either Permatex/Loctite #3 aviation cement, or Loctite 315 master gasket. |
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| Author: | M-JAY [ Sat Dec 24, 2011 5:52 pm ] |
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I use Dow Corning's 'Instant Gasket'. I used to work for a company that distributed their products in Australia. I chose to use the product because I believe its the best available. In my opinion. The product has a use by date, too. As the Doc says both surfaces must be clean. I use wax and grease remover or thinners then dry both off with a clean rag. You can get Dow Corning Instant Gasket from many Industrial Supply Companies around the country or Repco. Please note I do not have any connection with Dow Corning or any of its distributors. My opinion is based on product training and experience of other products. |
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| Author: | Mick [ Sat Dec 24, 2011 6:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When you have a thermostat housing which really avoids being sealed (despite a new gasket and all) check the thermostat sealing face on the head near the front thermostat stud. There's narrow gap between the water jacket and the stud. This metal in this area gets a little bit eroded over time on some heads and allows water to jump the gap between the jacket and the stud. If it has, pay special attention to the gasket in this area to try and seal it up properly. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Dec 24, 2011 6:43 pm ] |
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Mick wrote: When you have a thermostat housing which really avoids being sealed (despite a new gasket and all) check the thermostat sealing face on the head near the front thermostat stud.
There's narrow gap between the water jacket and the stud. This metal in this area gets a little bit eroded over time on some heads and allows water to jump the gap between the jacket and the stud. If it has, pay special attention to the gasket in this area to try and seal it up properly. I find Loctite 315 master gasket works best in this case. It is an anaerobic sealant so it sets, where the old #3 can stay fluid and leak for a while. |
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| Author: | dodge [ Sat Dec 24, 2011 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
stag |
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| Author: | willy [ Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:06 am ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Mick wrote: When you have a thermostat housing which really avoids being sealed (despite a new gasket and all) check the thermostat sealing face on the head near the front thermostat stud. There's narrow gap between the water jacket and the stud. This metal in this area gets a little bit eroded over time on some heads and allows water to jump the gap between the jacket and the stud. If it has, pay special attention to the gasket in this area to try and seal it up properly. I find Loctite 315 master gasket works best in this case. It is an anaerobic sealant so it sets, where the old #3 can stay fluid and leak for a while. Surely this is why you'd use #4; a hardening sealant, which is designed for gaskets? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
willy wrote: drmini in aust wrote: Mick wrote: When you have a thermostat housing which really avoids being sealed (despite a new gasket and all) check the thermostat sealing face on the head near the front thermostat stud. There's narrow gap between the water jacket and the stud. This metal in this area gets a little bit eroded over time on some heads and allows water to jump the gap between the jacket and the stud. If it has, pay special attention to the gasket in this area to try and seal it up properly. I find Loctite 315 master gasket works best in this case. It is an anaerobic sealant so it sets, where the old #3 can stay fluid and leak for a while. Surely this is why you'd use #4; a hardening sealant, which is designed for gaskets? #4 is harder to get these days- whereas everybody sells #3. I keep #3 here for some jobs (eg rack shim sealing) but generally use 315 for engine & gearbox building now. It is designed for metal to metal sealing but works fine with gaskets too. No leaky either way. 
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| Author: | Mick [ Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
willy wrote: Surely this is why you'd use #4; a hardening sealant, which is designed for gaskets? Like dodge said, Stag is a hardening sealant I suppose like Permatex No. 4. Don't use it for anything near the oil however. It breaks off in stiff chunks and can flow into and block galleries. |
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