Ok so my latest hick up is as follows.

finaly got car runing so the major hurdel is done.
now im paying my attention to the electrical system witch is a bit confusing.

The wiring loom i had made up is for a

plus i had it wired with other stuff i needed to suit my gauges etc plus other stuff like rear reversing light ...and my washer bottle is located in the boot also
thermo fan etc

now the thermo fan is working fine but ive got nothing going to the wires that are for the washer pump and the pump is brand new as i tested it on 12v battery but no power is going to the wires in the boot.

also my fuse block is new and the wires are a bit werid.

see photo.



its got

x 2 green
x1 white
x1 brown
x1 purple

the only one that is live is the brown one that gives power to the ignition i think?

I have no idear what the others are for and none of them are gettign power anyway?

also after i installed the rear loom i noticed it has wires named reversing light as i told them i intened to put one onto the boot at some stage once i find the right one from uk
so i was like ok thats good but instead of putting the end to this in the car near the dash switchs as i said i wanted it to be able to be turned on by a switch the wires are located at the front of the car near the radiator ??
so now i have to relocate them to suit ...bugger

also on closer inspection i cant seem to find the wires that go to the brake light switch on the subframe??
theres none built into the loom?
I would think all minis have this switch located here so any idears what to do with this missing bit of loom?

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

that fuse box will never work as it is at the moment.

which wire comes from the Battery/ Solonoid terminal to power the Fuse Block??

The top row should all be connected IN SERIES to Positive power IN,the fuse exit wires going to the respective circuit switches...then onto the "thing" being powered up.

We rewired a mates Moke using heavy duty 5 & 7 trailer flex with all new relays/terminals/switches,all wrapped in split convoluted tube. The only hitch when completed being the LH head light wires ended up crossed...RH hi beam/LH lo beam which was easily fixed.

If your loom maker made all those errors you listed above, I would be taking it back to him to be done properly!! or demanding a refund & finding someone more competent at making looms.

What did you pay for that??


Have a safe Xmas & Prosperous New Year...
Owning a Mini & being prosperous don't normally go together though unfortunately.

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1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer

I wired it like that as none of the wires were labeld on this part of the loom all i was told was that they were for the fuse box.
the only one that is live is the brown wire so if im understanding you right all other wires need a possitive currunt going to them?

gues thats why none of the other stuff is working lol

ill take a closer look at it today....any idears how to wire it up so part of the fuse box is all live?? i had this problem last time so i made my own fuse box and wires it so the whol box was all possitive by soldrering all the conectors together on one whole side...

should i do this again?

or do they make a fuse box for this purpose?

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

ohh yes the loom is to suit a mini k as it was the only loom i could fins in there list that was close enough to what i thourght i needed.

cost was just under $700 due to the extra stuff i needed.

ie

all my gauges are autometer untrlight so they required more night light wires
thermo fan was an extra add on
reversing light was extra
water temp is now electric not mechanical
washer pump is not in boot so that was extra wiring....

just concerned liuke i said b4 about the brake light switch? dose the mini k have one like other m inis on the front subframe?

im sure it will work out...idd hate to have to rip it out even though its not quite right...
hopefully it can be moded to do what i need it to do

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

Use the original Lucas fusebox!!! The fusebox you currently have is useless and will continue to give you strife. Nothing wrong with the Lucas 2 fuse box - you can get them new and they have the right number of contact to do the job. Clean the contacts thoroughly on an old one and tension the fuse holders and you're sorted!
From memory,
White to 1
All green to 2
Brown to 3
All purple to 4

Thanks so much for that info guys
Much appreciated
Any chance u know what each color does?
I no brown is ignition
But have no idear what others do?
I'll hit this snag later on also for example
Wires for all the gauges arnt labeled so I don't no
What wire is for signal, ing, power ect
It's going to be a pain

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

This is where people go wrong. They think that us Auto Electricians charge money for nothing.
This is what I preach:-

We Charge

$80.00 per hour.

$100.00 if you watch.

$140 if you help

and

$160 if you have already attempted to fix it yourself.

Pricing is also subject to change according to customer’s attitude

( Let us remove your shorts)

IT IS NO DIFFERENT THAN TAKING YOUR CAR TO A REPUTABLE MINI MECHANIC. Some people think they can do electrics on cars ...... ideas from unprofessional "Friends" can lead to more problems and makes the money you save on the process False economy. I wish you luck.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Im not picking on the guys who built the loom...99% of it is right ..theses guys had my loom for 3 weeks and all information was given to them and i even went down and spoke to them each week just to check up on how things were going....
photos were given also off all gauges so im not sure why the wires for the gauges are not labeled for me...gues they just forgot.

everyone makes misstakes...

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started a new project...there goes all my free time....

IF the makers of the loom followed the normal colour coding for English cars Then:
Brown is Battery +
White is Ignition switched
Green is fused protected ignition circuits (brake lights, wipers, instruments, blinker etc)
Purple is fuse protected Battery + circuits (Horn etc)

Sort the fuse box first then check which wire to the instruments have ignition power. Hopefully they followed with green for ign, black for earth and a suitable colour for the senders.