Hi guys,
I am installing a weber on my engine for my Moke, and am running into clearance problems.
If I had 20mm longer on the engine steady bars, this would give me around 5mm clearance on the Ramflo offset filter which is ideal.
I am running a Warneford/Redline short manifold.

The angle of the engine with 20mm longer steady bars isn't too bad; I've unbolted the steadies and had a play.

Does anyone see any issues with this?
I could do other things like machine the faces of the manifold, reshape the air filter itself, but I really don't want to have to cut into the firewall and I thought that longer/custom steady bars would be the best way out of it.

Let me know your thoughts...

Just check your gear shifter linkages don't foul the subframe or the floor, should be OK, but just check them to be sure. Also, just check you've still got enough clearance between the studs and nuts on the diff cap and the subframe.

Another item that will need adjustment is the lower end of your extractors, but nothing an Oxy can't fix.

And check the radiator doesn't bump in to the back of the LH Headlight bucket.

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I'm no expert, but I'd say you'll run into problems with the gear change linkages. I know little about the remote or magic wand types, but the main cause of oil leaking in the rod change is due to the selector rod moving about relative to the box. By tilting the engine forward, the rod in the box will be pushed up or down depending on which way you change gear (stick forward for 1st and 3rd, backward for 2nd and 4th). You'll probably get some pretty serious leaks there.

On my car, I originally installed the engine with it tilted forward by 10mm at the steady bar.
I found any further than that and the alternator was too close to slam panel, and the radiator had too much clearance against the shroud.
There was also an issue with the exhaust downpipe rubbing on the pot joint.

After the engine was rebuilt, I found gear selection was harder with the new parts that hadn't worn, so I straightened the engine back up.

I would not recommend going 20mm further forward at the top.

Looks like you might have to rethink your filter choice

Tilting it sounds like bad news Mr G!

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Good point with the alternator, but I think I'll have heaps of room in the Moke.
And in regards to the exhaust rubbing the pot joints, this could only have been due to the fact that the exhaust hadn't been 'reset' to the new angle of the engine; being that the headers are being pulled towards the pot joint itself.

In regards to the gear linkage, those 'sleeves' pivot a fair way, so I think they will articulate enough to allow for enough for the new engine angle.

Those are my thoughts at least!

The gear linkage sleeve could be replaced with a proper uni joint which would allow the motor to tilt a bit and it would also improve some of the inherent slop in the rod-change gear shift.

Great thinking.
I like
Do you see any other problems I may encounter, Morris?

There is probably a lot of things to keep an eye on as you try it. It is just a matter of looking at everything as it happens.

A uni joint like this...



Or this...



Not this...

Yes indeed!

Mine is tilted 25mm and no dramas. Linkages fine, alternator clearance fine, etc.
This is on a Clubby with smallbore... only saying due to hight of block, etc.

Enough room to fit intake manifold, HIF44 and a plenum having said that, I did 'straighten' the cover in the firewall (that sits behind the carb) previously.

Only thing I notice is it sometimes jolts if I dont change gear smooth (but I think thats just cause the dump, etc has no room but just in case

Pete

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Awesome!
Did you fabricate new engine steadies, modify the original cast ones, or use adjustable off-the-shelf ones?

Modified originals mate. I would just buy a set of adjustables though.

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BFH?

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