Help please, i cant seem to get the correct feel i have lapped in all the new components but when i torque it up to 75 lb its either too tight or too loose, so i add a shim or remove a shim but still cant get it right????
cheers TSB

Did you throw away the old shims?

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patients young padawan!
Or enlist some help!

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Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

MiniBob showed me a brilliant thing just last week when doing ball joints...................tap the threaded part of the new ball joint after you have it torqued up, use the wooden handle of your hammer, just below the head and you should be able to move it quite nicely.

Or, just keep at it with different thickness shims

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

There are many different shim sizes available, more then you will get in a packet of balljoints.

If you know someone with a collection of old shims, try them. Alternatives are machining the nut but thats tricky business. Getting the right shims is much easier.

Never ever throw old shims away. New balljoints don't come with enough now, in most cases.

Note the balljoint nut must be TIGHT (around 72lb/ft), do not be tempted to leave it looser.
And always fit a new lock washer. If these things unscrew, boy it can make a mess of the car (and maybe you).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

New ball joints are not what you'd call 'precision', so they tend to have tight spots. You can assmble them with a little valve grinding paste, on the tight side and lap them in by hand (or drill), but be sure to move it through it's complete range of movment. Pull it apart, clean it thoroughly and then re-assemble. If you can't quite get the shimming just so, it is OK to over-torque them a bit, but I wouldn't go over 85 ft-lb.

In their final assembly, you are best off having them a little on the loose side than tight. If they are tight (at all) there is a real risk that they can come undone. The 'locktab' won't save you. And use your old spring washers, the new ones are just a bit of bent wire........

Is It OK to use nyloc nuts on ball joints ?

Not a good idea. The proper nuts are grade 5 tensile and generally nylocs are about grade 3, but it's not the nut that holds them together, it's the taper......

Ok people, i did keep the old shims, so i think i will just keep trying, thanx heaps for all your tips etc...thats the best thing about these forums the knowledge sharing. ta tsb

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but Im struggling with these at the moment.

The smallest shims I was supplied with are 3 thou, I can get them reasonably good with variations of these but I was wondering if it would be worth cutting up some 1 thou shims to get it spot on?

Or is within 3 thou close enough?

I've never felt the need for thinner than .003".
I like them to be a little tight, but still movable by hand- if loose when assembled you will be re-shimming them later...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

G'day guys,

Sorry to drag this one out again.... but

I'm back having a crack at these (havent been able to get out to work on the mini for a couple weeks), and I seem to be struggling to get a consistent smooth movement. i am finding it will be loosish on one side but when try move it around, it seems to grab in spots.

I tried cleaning it up etc.. but no good.

How much grease should i use? should i grease the top ball bit (top of the shaft bit where it meets the nut)?

As always I appreciate all your help tips.

Cheers

As said above these are not precision made parts (not now, anyway- are not made in UK or here).
Use NO GREASE on the taper part.
Only grease at the nipple, after assembled..

Note- adjust the bottom ones without the spring fitted. Otherwise it'll take all day to get it right. When you are happy, THEN fit the little spring in and reassemble.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Aaaahh ok, thanks very much for the advice, i was stuffing it with grease so this wouldnt have helped.

I'll pull em out and give a good clean, and refit. I'll also check out the nut for any burs or not smooth finish etc.. (i'm assuming this is what you meant when you say they are not precision made).

Thanks again for your response.

Cheers
Mark