Unfortunately i have one hurdle before getting my 67 deluxe back on the road. I have a reeeeeaaaaaalllllllllyyyyyyyyy slow wiper motor.

I have gone through the archives and have tried, wetting the glass, new blades, lifting the blades of the glass and nothing works. This is an original single speed motor so i'm wondering if its just old and tired?

Any other ideas would be great.

Thanks

D

Cracked magnets could be a cause.

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The single speed ones are pretty slow, like 30 wipes a minute or so.
The square motor ones can be sped up by putting a 22-27 ohm resistor in the field circuit. If you bypass it with a switch you then get 2 speeds, original and 2x.
if you use a variable resistor, you get variable speed.

You could fit a Clubby 2 speed round motor instead, but it's more work than doing this. Speeds about the same.

There is a big 2 speed wiper thread we did a while back, see here-
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... er&start=0

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It might be a good idea to look at the wiper motor cable (the one that turns the wiper blades). The pipe that houses it can get full of crud and rust. If you're taking the motor out, slide that out too and have a look.

Im taking mine out tonight (the tube thing) as my motor works but the wipers wont move, so ill give it a clean out and a nice greasing. Is there a trick to getting the tube but out? i had a quick look last night and it looks sort of wedged in there

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Brushes are another thing to check. Mine was running R e a l l y slow and I took it out for a rebuild a few weeks ago and found one of the brushes missing and the other one so stubby that it was about to fall out. The brush holder was running the armature.

A good clean up, pumice stone on the armature to get it shiny again and new brushes and now it runs fast and smooth again.

To remove the rack if I recall correctly, you must remove the nuts below the rotating wiper spindles and drop the spindles down through. Did this several years ago and washed out the old hard grease with solvent and re-greased with fresh light weight bearing grease.

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When refitting the wiper wheelboxes, if the tapered escutcheons on top look daggy ot have shrunk, fit new ones.
Mini King has both the early type and the late Oz type `68> in black. Shameless plug- I machined `em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

are these the things your talking about doc? As you can see mine are....well......past their best before date. They look like they might have been rubber once
If they arent what your talking about, what are these things called as i need to order some new ones

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Make certain the tube that the rack runs inside is dead straight and the grease in it is clean and not dried out. Its easy to bend them putting them in and it causes a lot of friction.

Also its possible to tweak up the voltage at the regulator. A small increase can help a lot. You wouldn't want to go silly with it, but it should be safe to have it up around 14V at a fast idle.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

;

Yes that is them.
I call them `wiper escutcheons', early long tapered ones are easy to get as they are the same as UK ones.

Late ones used only on Oz cars from `68 on (with the recessed holes in the scuttle panel) are p/no 62710622. Official name is `bush'.
[edit] I think these late bushes are NLA except for the ones I make. I attempted to buy a pair from ******* Motoring once, but when they turned up they were the early type.
Some people cut those back to use on late cars, but they are too small to seal properly.

As I said Mini King has both types, material of these is HDPE plastic, machined all over. More durable than the originals.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

By all means clean out the OLD grease in the wheel boxes and rack tube. As noted the rack tube must be free of sharpish bends especially kinks as this will stop the rack screw cold.

I used 5/15" fuel line to make new rack tube to solve the problem of a kinked tube. Flairs at ends of lengths for wheel boxes. Done.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!