Steel is fine, S/S is too (but may be weaker depending on grade).
Don't use copper paste, dip the bolts in lanolin or Permatex/Loctite #3 gasket cement.
Works fine on outboard motors (with S/S studs).
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| all you metal heads :) what does not react with alloy https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=75724 |
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| Author: | NG [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | all you metal heads :) what does not react with alloy |
howdy lads Im looking to tap into some alloy parts, i bought from specialist components. I have no idea what reacts with alloy? if i use a steel bolt thats will fuse right? what about a titanium bolt? stainless? or is it best just to slam it with cooper paste. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:07 am ] |
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Steel is fine, S/S is too (but may be weaker depending on grade). Don't use copper paste, dip the bolts in lanolin or Permatex/Loctite #3 gasket cement. Works fine on outboard motors (with S/S studs).
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| Author: | NG [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:29 am ] |
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why not copper paste? i have some of that zinc paste at home the silver stuff would that work? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:35 am ] |
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Copper and aluminium are bad companions. Add water and you will promote corrosion. That silver paste may be nickel, not zinc (if it is anti-seize compound). Outboard motor makers (Johnson & Evinrude) dipped all their threads in lanolin (wool fat) before fitting. I used to use Permatex #3 gasket cement on these when replacing. It seals the water out. 10 years later, I could still screw them out. I still use it on Mini thermostat housing studs. |
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| Author: | NG [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:39 am ] |
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ok cool thank you doc  ill do that then! yes i have the nickel one sorry. would that work?
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:26 am ] |
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Nickel anti-seize would be better in alloy than copper. |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: all you metal heads :) what does not react with alloy |
NG wrote: howdy lads
Im looking to tap into some alloy parts, i bought from specialist components. I have no idea what reacts with alloy? if i use a steel bolt thats will fuse right? what about a titanium bolt? stainless? or is it best just to slam it with cooper paste. Being nosey but, wot you fitting ? |
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| Author: | NG [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:25 pm ] |
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rear alloy hubs & alloy mini fins to lighten up the mini a bit, might go alloy rear arms not sure yet or im going force racing split rims and leaving it at that. |
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| Author: | The Duckmeister [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:32 pm ] |
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Alloy doesn't particularly like stainless steel unless you properly isolate the joint. Especially if you're anywhere near a marine environment; the salty air will trigger corrosion. |
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| Author: | NG [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:39 pm ] |
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so would titanium be better? |
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| Author: | 69k1100 [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:01 pm ] |
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Don't know if it's different for drums but once I finished bleeding from my knuckles and screaming profanities I finally got the remains of the screw out (with a bloody big hammer and impact driver, which I twisted in the process) I threw that screw away as I reasoned the clamping force from the wheel nuts would be more than that puny screw anyway. And now if I ever have to change discs again it's much easier, as that screw won't ever get seized again. |
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| Author: | Phat Kat [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:14 pm ] |
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+1 for what the doc said. |
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| Author: | Drewie [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:18 pm ] |
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[quote="drmini in aust"]Copper and aluminium are bad companions. Add water and you will promote corrosion. Question for you 'drmini' slightly off topic but seeing we are discussing anti seize, I am going to change the long life iridium spark plugs in an all alloy V8 shortly, I was going to use the jar of copper based anti seize I have until I read this thread, any suggestions as to what to use? They are long life plugs so will be in the alloy for like 80,000km and a lot of years. Appreciate your thoughts. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:23 pm ] |
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I would use nickel anti-seize, it is better for high temps than copper anyway. I use the nickel one on the Y-piece of my Maniflow LCB. Hopefully it won't seize on like it did with the copper one. 
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:55 am ] |
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NG wrote: rear alloy hubs & alloy mini fins to lighten up the mini a bit,
might go alloy rear arms not sure yet or im going force racing split rims and leaving it at that. Thanks, I've done the same but not split rims. And I used KopraCote on the drum screws so I think I'll check 'em out 
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