hey guys

I'm having problem with my clutch , i find it hard to put in first and it crunch wen i try to put in reverse , when i step on it , its flat to the floor , does that means its worn which is obvious cast .

is it hard to replace a clutch DIY , and what else should i replace while I'm there , any bearing or bushes ?

if i was to get a machnics to replace it would i take to any or a specialist in clutch and gearbox ?

any suggestion would be much appreciated .

might be worn a bit, but maybe not worn out... probably just needs adjusting

there will be lots of replies, but basically go to your workshop manual and it explains what to do

take the spring off the slave cylinder, pull the arm out as far as you can, if there is a gap between the arm and the little bolt poking out of the clutch cover, unscrew that bolt till it's almost touching the arm. Then put the spring back on, pump the clutch pedal a few times and it should be right

if that doesn't fix it, pull back the rubber on the slave cylinder and check that it's not leaking fluid

Might just need the hydrailics bled.

<edit> If the clutch is badly worn it will slip under heavy load in 4th.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

If after doing as Simon has suggested you are still finding you have this problem it is worth replacing as many of the linkages between the pedal and the clutch itself as you can. most are cheap parts.

ie

clevis pin at pedal to Master Cyl
slave pushrod
clevis pin clutch arm upper end
clevis pin clutch arm lower end
the clutch arm if the ball is badly worn
clutch bearing carrier

Tiny movement in each of these adds up to lost movement at the other end.

Replacing the clevis pins and the clutch arm is easy (although the one on the pedal is very awkward to access) If you have a brake booster it may be easier to remove so you can reach the arm easier.

Replacing the bearing carrier involves removing the clutch cover but still not that difficult, just a bit more involved.

In my case I replaced every thing but the pedal clevis, the arm and the bearing carrier and it helped a little.

Replacing the bearing carrier when I recently replaced the thrust bearing made a huge difference. It was quite worn and lots of slack there.

The difference is amazing, feels like a new car, no more crunching into reverse or difficulty getting into 1st and pedal take up is not so close to the floor.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)