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 Post subject: Painting shopping list
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:48 am 
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Hello everyone
Getting ready for paint on my clubman resto, so I need to look at buying supplies.

PhatKat's guide is for acrylic, where as I will be painting with 2pak.

Can someone please ammend this shopping list for me, so it's 2pak supplies, and add what ever else I might need

Thanks in advance

PhatKat wrote:
• 4lts of Multi Purpose thinners (this is for mixing etch primer and cleaning.)
• 20lts of Acrylic Thinners. This only for Acrylic Paint, you can use it for cleaning but its not nearly as effective. You will need 20lts; you may have as much as 5lts left over but 20lts is cheaper than 3X5lts. It is maybe 10% more expensive than Multi Purpose but it is more refined than Multi. You will not get a pro quality job using Multi for mixing paint.
• 2lts of 1k etch primer (that’s 1 part or acrylic, "k" is the first letter of the German word for component, 1k one part 2k two part or 2 Pak).
• 4lts of primer surfacer
• 1lt of black paint or GMH Black if you like, this is for guide coat so it won't be staying on the car, it gets sanded off. GMH Black is a cheaper than full quality black paint. Another name for GMH black is body black. Its poor quality paint so only use it for guide coating
• A tack rag (you can get these at paint shops for about $2.50)
• 4lts of colour
• 1-4lts of retarder thinners (this is a slow drying thinners ideal for final coats of paint. If it is humid buy 4lts as you can replace 20% of your normal thinners in the paint mix with this and it will cure humidity defects)
• 4lts of clear (if a metallic is to be used otherwise just one liter)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:23 pm 
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whatever you go with, get to supercheap asap! 50% off ALL 3M products ;)

just picked up 16 ltrs of thinners amongst a whole host of other things aha.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:13 pm 
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I'll be getting it all from the local trade paint shop :P

Bump for phatkat or Mrfail or other painters!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:57 pm 
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minidrifter wrote:
whatever you go with, get to supercheap asap! 50% off ALL 3M products ;)

just picked up 16 ltrs of thinners amongst a whole host of other things aha.


"Stock Clearance" - that's cause no one is buying it cause it's all crap Wasn't that long ago the 3M range was put in - dumping it already shows how well it sells

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:02 pm 
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yeah certainly caught us by surprise. But tbh from my point of view anyway it'd been selling just as well if not better than the septone they're bringing back in. managed by numpties.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 2:21 pm 
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Ok, so your shopping list will be very different if you intend to use 2pak. Do you intend on using Direct gloss, or clear over base.?
As that will obviously alter your list.
Ok from what i can remember on mine, i bought.. 3l of colour (basecoat) 3l of clear, 3l of normal reducer , 4l of 2pak primer/surfacer (putty), hardener for putty, hardener for clear, 3l of epoxy primer, hardener for epoxy, ummm, some gmh black for guide coat, probably about 10-20l of gunwash, i also bought 1l of rust converter.
I cant remember what ese i got. It really depends on what sort of job you are going to do (ie. How far you are going to take it back) . I got mine blasted, so tats why i needed the epoxy. I will see if i can find my old invioces for my stuff, to see if i have forgotten anything.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:33 pm 
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minidrifter wrote:
yeah certainly caught us by surprise. But tbh from my point of view anyway it'd been selling just as well if not better than the septone they're bringing back in. managed by numpties.


Septone at least has the highest concentration of phosphoric acid in it's rust converter - and when there is no choice of cause it will sell nearly as well - but they lost my custom in that area

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:08 pm 
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that 3M stuff isnt really 3M its just re packaged knh stuff.. but i use their general thinners in 2k base coat and never have issues with it, as at the end of the day all it does is make it sprayable then evaporate, mr fail basically has the list you want, id recomend if a non metallic colour using dg if your a home painter. try and use the best brand you can too, i use ppg and house of kolor stuff for work which is expensive but the ppg offshoot company autothane makes really good cheap 2k stuff, i use it on all my race cars and the little clubby i restored recently and none have had any issues with paint.. saves alot of money on colour and hardener

edit: add a full trade spec spray mask to that list, base coat is "ok" to breath in but in any more then just a haze youl choke anyway but theres some agro stuff in the clearcoat and only the best filters will get it, so not from bunnings..


Last edited by meeni on Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:08 pm 
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Septone is made locally, I dunno about the 3M stuff these days.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:48 pm 
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+1 to Autothane (PPG)

I was originally going to go Direct Gloss Decron by PPG but the paint was gonna cost a fortune. Almost 4 times the amount as normal colour & clear.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:09 pm 
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In that case, colour and clear it is. I thought direct gloss was the cheaper version.

So, what's the big shopping list for a colour and clear bare metal job?
Thanks for all the input so far painting gurus.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:02 am 
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At the top of your list will be a fresh air fed breather mask and full extraction spray booth, anything less is illegal and only minutes of exposure can permanently damage your lungs.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=14051

And just as a matter of interest 3m is now 3m stuff since 3m bought out k&h (btw k&h was mostly rebranded HB body) at about the same time as meguaris changed hands, There stuff is good (best in the price range by far) the main reason Im guessing supercheap droped them is becuase of the woefull supply line 3m have put in place, Thats half the reason autobarn dropped them months ago.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:28 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
In that case, colour and clear it is. I thought direct gloss was the cheaper version.

So, what's the big shopping list for a colour and clear bare metal job?
Thanks for all the input so far painting gurus.


Going Direct gloss over clear over base will always be cheaper. When you compare same brand paint. I think above he was talking about using PPG "DG" and obviously settled for a different brand " DG".
I used Debeer on mine. Very good paint, and much better priced than PPG.
FYI. Valspar is the parent company of both Debeer and House of Colour. ;-)

I will dig up my list with prices if your interested. I did bare metal c.o.b Debeer on mine.
But be prepared.... even with my trade price, it was well over 1k.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:42 pm 
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Anyone used Aquamax water-based base coat, followed by Max Mayer HS 0300 clear lacquer coat applied over the top?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:40 pm 
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Thanks MrFail.

Well over 1K you say!

I only paid <$500 for the acrylic supplies for my moke's interim job!

Mind you, that was concept paints brand
Is the finish really that different between concept paints and something like deeber or ppg? Obviously someone in the trade would laugh at the question, but to average joe who will be driving, and looking at the car, how noticable is the difference?


Also, this is a silly question, but how much would the paint in a cheaper brand, like concept paints set me back?

Would be nice to keep paint suppy costs under $800 if possible, but do it once, do it right I suppose (Within budgetary reason!)

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