Hey guys ,
I am having a problem with my clutch. Now this is my first clutch replacement ever so bare with me. I do have the manual but i just want to be sure im on the right track here.

I have just purchased this mini and have been told the clutch needs replacing. When i push the pedal it goes straight to the floor. The car is in neutral.

The main reason i suspect it's something internal is because if i push the clutch arm as much as i can by hand, i hear the gearbox crunch... surely in neutral this should not happen? The slave cylinder appears to be working and i can see the clutch arm moving a bit when i push the clutch (but nothing, no crunching occurs)

I bought the flywheel puller tool and took it all apart. Here are some pictures. Does the clutch look bad? I dont know what a bad one looks like.

If anyone could advise me on what needs doing, and what parts to buy that would be great! I dont want to buy the wrong clutch etc in case this has been modified somewhat.

Thanks again!!

looks fine... what about the diaphragm (the hat that goes on the outside) look like? is the spring in there OK?

Disassemble the "wok" (the clutch housing cover) and inspect the arm, the bearing carrier and the thrust bearing. The tip can break off the arm, the carrier wears internally, and the bearing doesn't live forever. Arms and carriers can be bought cheaply, and if the bearing is no good I can sell you a proper one (not the POS the mini shops sell)

take pictures

Seems an extreme to go straight to dismantling a clutch.
A worn one will still work, seems like your problem could be a bent arm, or spongy / leaky master cylinder.

how does the arm look? looks straight to me?

What spring do you mean? The spring from the master cylinder to the arm? Looks ok to me.

Do you mean the release plunger / release bearing?
How do i test if they are good? Im not even sure what they do.

Gee
I though the clutch plate didn't have a great dela of wear on it but it did have a fair amount of oil - particularly in the second plate photo.

Regardless - as a matter of routine. if you changing a clutch, change the oil seal as well.

Mike

will do mike.

This release bearing is very hard to turn by hand, i will assume its meant to spin feely. So i guess i'll need a new bearing / plunger. got one for me simon?

The clutch looks fine to me.
The throw out bearing is meant to spin freely with no noise and no "clinky" bits.
Check out your master and slave cylinders, pretty much pop the rubbers off them and if any fluid is present get them re-kited.
The spring mentioned dose not look like your usual spring. It is part of the 4th large part you would have pulled out but not photoed. The spring is a thin steel donut shaped thingy. if you can see any cracks in it, it's no good.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Check that the diaphragm spring is flat (ie parallel to the flywheel) when the clutch is assembled on the bench.
If it's less than flat (typical with old clutch assemblies) you are not getting max clamping force.
I have seen a 1275LS one so far out, it slipped in 4th gear with the clutch plate only worn 0.5mm.

[edit] I check flatness by placing a 3mm drill against the spring (you can do this in 3 places) and eyeballing that it is parallel to the flywheel (or not quite).

Read this for clutch assembly info-
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The spring looks ok to me. No fluid on either master or slave cyl.
Before i order all this stuff, is there any special tool required to replace the oil seal?

I reckon the seal was leaking there'd be more oil around than that, it might be best leaving the seal alone... Can you post a picture of the engine side of the clutch housing, so we can see the crank & seal area? and is there oil sitting in the bottom? (there's a ~5mm hole there designed to let any oil out)


Getting the old seal out without making a mess is the hardest part

my special tool is 2" wide electrical tape, wrap it around the primary gear to protect the new seal from the splines and the sharp edge/step where it seals on the crank. Oil it a bit, slide the new seal over it and gently bop it into place in the housing. Don't use any sealant or anything sticky on the outside of the seal, they can be a bastard to get in.


If you're handy, you can make a tool to fit the new seal - a cylinder with a lip at one end to sit against the seal, and a closed at the other end with a hole big enough for the flywheel bolt. Place it over the crankshaft and use the flywheel bolt to press the seal in. You got this far on your first ever clutch without any help so you must have some brains

I get the seal out with a cheapo Supercrap 3 leg puller- I sharpened one end of the legs so that it can grab the primary gear behind the spline; pull it out and the seal comes too. Cable tie saves having 3 hands.

[edit] here's a pic-

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

why thankyou simon. Well if you think this seal is leaking i'll give it a go... otherwise might be best to leave it . Do you think its worth replacing the clutch?

I hope these pics are ok

That seal looks good, not dripping- or have you cleaned it all up?
If it ain't leaking, I'd leave it alone...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

my thoughts too - if the engine is old then the seal might have just the right amount of crud built up behind it to stop it from leaking when the crank moves around, changing the seal might lead to an unwanted engine rebuild because the crud seal is gone...

Are you saying one of the problems is that it crunches trying to engage say first and reverse. This is often because the clutch is not fully disengaging because of the tiny amounts of slack in each linkage between the pedal and the thrust bearing.

There's the pin at the pedal, the pin at the top of the clutch arm, the slave pushrod, the ball on the clutch arm, the arm pivot pin and the bearing carrier. the tiny slack in each adds up.

I had all sorts of problems engaging first and reverse but even just replacing the bearing carrier and the pins on/of the clutch arm and the slave pushrod was enough to fix all that and make the car feel 100% improved.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)