What's the going rate for a SC12
Just trying to get a rough idea on what I should be looking at. If you have one what did you pay?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

They generally go for $400-450 nowadays.
If you can get it under $400 that's prob a good deal.
They're bloody popular now which has hiked the prices up

Do you have to engineer the car when fitting these, or do we just run the gauntlet with Mr Plod?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Same as a turbo, needs a mod plate.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I paid 250 for mine i think it was, good condition. That was about 2 years ago and i thought i was lucky to find it.

Just bought one not 30 mins ago for $315. Now I am on the internet looking for the kit(unless someone has one here... ).

The only one I can find is at Minisport in Adelaide(geez my credit card has been getting a pizzling with this shop!!)for $1195 and I already have the HIF44. Hope the 1018 cc bucket likes it's new toy

So much for being a poor Uni student now...gotta love pussers pay-outs!

Any advice on the in's and out's of this conversion are welcomed...

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

talk to Ben aka '92' before you go shelling out to minisport

Thanks Simon - will do that. Can I run the pulley permanently clutched in vice a switch to clutch the charger in on accellerating?

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

say what??

I don't know if anyone bothers turning the blower off, the car does run, but not real well.

Sorry Simon - FI numpty here. I just ask as there are wires coming off the blower just the same as a aircon clutching system and have heard of people putting on a different pulley without the clutching bit.

Advice is welcome...

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Isn't the SC clutch designed (or ment) to release the SC drive when the car is at idle.
On my old SC14 charged feroza we welded the clutch. It worked and ran fine but it created massive vacuum at idle, enough to suck the silicone hoses to near closed. We had to insert coiled stainless steel tig wire inside the pipes to prevent them closing in on themselves.
If you don't have any flexible piping it won't matter.
In this 1st pic the pipes were short enough not to suck in too much;

Once we added the intercooler with the longer pipes, that's when we had the collapsing problem;

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

There are wires coming off the clutch exactly like an AC compressor, I have mine getting power from the switched 12v fuse. Mustn't draw a lot of current because it never blew the fuse... When I originally installed it, I thought about a relay, then decided not to bother unless it became an issue - it's been 18 months

The only issue people have is that the engine can conk out when you pull up at the traffic lights (particularly if the idle is low). I never bothered as I didn't have the problem with my carb, but gr4h4m added a valve to add a little blower bypass. It links the "hot side" and "cold side" of the blower, allowing a bit of boost pressure to escape back to the intake.



Switching the valve on & off is simple with megajolt ignition, or a $25 frequency switch kit from jaycar, but like I said, wasn't an issue for me, mightn't be for others either.

The setup on the Toyota is the same as what gr4h4m made, except they have a valve like a 1" carb butterfly that opens when the blower clutch is switched off.

The blower spins very easily, if the clutch is off, the vanes turn by the vacuum of the engine, which is why they only use a small bypass.

There are some good bits of info in this thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=69229

So YOU were the one bidding against me! Sorry to make you pay so much. I would have bid that up to $350 if it had been in Brisbane but with the uncertainty of courier pricing to get it home set my limit at $310.

I think you got a very good price. I haven't seen one sell that low for quite some time.

Ben's kit is the way to go. I bought something from him recently and the build quality was top shelf.

M

Thats no surprise

There are much cheaper shops out there than Mini-sport.

but i dont know anything about the kit.

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Sorry Mokesta - didnt know it was you my friend. I had a batna of $400 and freight is going to be around $40.

Minisport are pretty on the money with price I think as some of the other mini suppliers are way above them and their postage is next day - perfect for me. I waited nearly two weeks for parts from a Melbourne supplier which is very inconvenient for me; however, MS had it on my doorstep the very next day, usually before I walked out the door for work. I can't fault that.

The Smiths guages at a reputable supplier in the southern states wanted over $200 for the volt meter where MS got it to me for $119 - happy days I think.

Now I just have to wait for Ben to get back to me and then sort out the jigsaw that will be installing the kit.

Hooroo

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!