Evening all,

Its Friday arve, Ive been looking forward to playing with the mini all week, (cause on monday I finally finished hooking everything up and gave it a quick kick in the guts to see if she makes a noise, although she didnt start (fuel wasnt hooked up) the mini made its own noise for the first time in years),

Anyway back to tonight, rushed dinner and headed straight to the garage, hooked fuel lines up and turned the ignition on but no sound from the pump hmmm, I get under rear of the car gave the pump a few taps, nope no good, checked the two connections still no good.

So it appears it may have ceased or something, heres what i have:



Can i just buy any old replacement from super cheap?

Btw, I connected the lug near the yellow thing and the red wire directly to the battery to test, still no life...


Cheers
guys

It's an SU pump, these only make a noise when pumping. Once the line and carb are full they stop.
Turn the key to start and see what happens then.

If you have to replace it, I find the Facet electronic ones are good, but they are noisy all the time. But when rubber mounted I can't hear it with motor running.
You only want a 2.5-3psi one for an SU carby.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok thanks very much, i had the key turned to start (its an old one with the push button start in the floor), i then disconected the hose at the carb, still nothing.

I might go the wreckers and see if they have anything.

Cheers

Clean all electrical terminals , see if that helps , if not , pull it out , then carefully remove the black plastic top and inspect inside for cleanliness , it has a set of points inside .

Give it a spray inside with some electrical cleaner to get it all clean . If you have a workshop manual , have a read up on how they work , ( they are very simple ).
You can hook it up to power with the cap off it to see what it is doing , ( ie; the points should start working ). BUT , and i mean BUT , before you power it up , make sure that it is empty of fuel and dry , you don't want any sparks around a fuel source .

Also please note the wreckers will not have a electric pump for a mini
You can buy new SU pumps now but I suspect yours will only need the points cleaning or at worst replacing

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

The old SU ones are not hard to work on, if you have a workshop manual.
As said it's usually dirty points if no worky at all.
Not sure about their more recent electronic ones..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have an SU copy (Nardi brand) for sale that Aaron was going to buy but never showed up. Yours for $25 plus postage.

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Fantastic responses as always guys!! Thanks verymuch.

I will atempt the 'pullapartandclean' first, cause it did previously work so maybe just a bit of something internally needs a clean.

And if still no go, i'll take up the offer from 1310/71.

Cheers,

Hmm stuck in nth ryde for couple nights for work, cant wait to get and try it now

Thanks again guys, pulled it apart and gave points a good clean, and now pumping away.

Just another question now, sorry,

how can I test my dizzy? My old man and I went through it and coil trying to determin why it isnt getting spark, we kinda decided it was the dizzy(pulsar). Can the dizzy justgo like that? Where the blue and black wires go in is that something that can go?

Thanks guys

This worked for me with a couple of A+ electronic units that were out of the car.

Thanks indigo, looks like it was stuffed,prob blown module.

I just picked up another pulsar dizzy from the local wreckers.

So I dont blow this one, I just want confirm the blue wire goes to coil neg, black goes coil pos, and wire from ignition goes pos? ( have a generator btw, so pos earthed)

Cheers guys, and sorry for yet another question.

Yes, blue is neg, black (with w stripe) is pos onto the coil.

These Hitachi modules are pretty robust compared to a Pertronix or those cheapo UK ones, which cook easily if ign is left on.....

I've never run one of these dizzys with pos earth though, I converted all my Minis to neg earth yonks ago so they could use current radios and CDs etc.

[edit] IGN wire on yours is to NEG!!! on coil as it's POS earth. Watch this.... or you might blow another...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.